I am struggling with this one for quite a while now and I am now seeking for help here.
I have done e-step calibration, optimized the flow rate, performed a retraction, linear advance and PID calibration but have yet to find the reason for my inconsistent wall thickness. I have also tried PETG and PLA Pro at different extrusion temperatures without any change. And I exchanged the heatbreak and nozzle and made sure the hotend temperature sensor is deep inside the heat block. Still, all the same. Lowering the maximum acceleration or using slower print speed gave me some minor improvements but I kind of doubt that this is the root of my issue. Here you can see the results I am getting:
Everything looks good to me. I donāt see any red flags in what youāve posted that would explain anything useful.
Do you have wall thickness variation on a single-wall (vase mode) calibration cube?
Is it related to the curve in the wall? Or does it vary on straight sections too.
If itās only happening on curves then itās probably tied to acceleration in the form of linear advance, would be my guess.
Iām also assuming the variation in thickness is constant for each Z layer and this is not a filament with varying diameter.
If you rotate the part on the print bed 90 degrees does the variation stay the same? If you rotate it 45 degrees does it stay the same? Is this tied to one or 2 axes having motion issues?
Have you attempted to see if the linear modules are moving uniformly and you donāt have a lead screw wobble or pitch variation?
Is there any discernible play in the carriages that could introduce mechanical shifts that the backlash compensation is not removing?
I am most interesting in what happens if you print a single walled vase aligned at also maybe at 45 deg to the print bed.
Iād also be interested in a single walled oval shape to see if introducing curves affects things.
It is related to changes in the movement direction.
Yes, consistent filament diameter and same result in each layer.
Same results with 45 or 90 degrees rotation (I made sure the seam is at the same point).
I used a digital dial gouge to measure the backlash of the linear modules for X and Y axis. You can find the correction values above. I cannot see any issue here. I have very clean lines in X and Y direction over a long path.
The results are the same regardless of the orientation and placement. So I guess not.
Do you have any sample file I can try out? What results do you expect?
My personal opinion is that the viscosity of the material is not modeled correctly. But I havenāt heard much about such issues and my K value is calibrated. So I am bound to believe that this is mostly my issue. Or do you get similar results?
As @brent113 suggested, based on your image it seems to be tied to areas where acceleration/deceleration is taking place and so may be linked to linear advance. Linear advance is essentially a flow compensation that is applied when the print head is accelerating/decelerating in an attempt to achieve more even extrusion across a range of speeds.
Below is a post I made on this but if you search ālinear advanceā or āk valueā on the forums im sure there will be a wealth of information on how to calibrate this.
Thank you for pointing this out. However, I have already done this many times and always get the same result: 0.055 for PLA (as seen in my original post). I used this tool to generate the needed GCode with 25mm/s and 60mm/s.
Any other idea? Do you get different results with that object?
Unfortunately my printer is currently packed away and so I cannot test this file personally. I may be wrong but the variation in thickness in your image to me looks like it could correlate with too low a k value. Personally, I would run a quick test print with higher K value and slightly lower accel just to rule it out:
The calibration cube looks good I would say. The wall thickness is 0.48Ā±0.02mm.
Or is there anything else I can read from this except the elephant feet?
Print this model with luban to check if its a slicer issue.
After this i would print the model with various k-factors.
Maybe also tuning your junction deviation would help but try the other things first.
I already tried PrusaSlicer to rule out a slicer issue (as Luban uses Cura as backend anyway).
Setting junction deviation from M205 J0.01 to M205 J0.05 did not make any visual or measurable changes here. So I did some more linear advance calibration. First I tried K0.05 to K0.25 with my test object. The best value here seemed to be around 0.1. I redid the marlin linear advance calibration with values from 0.01 to 0.16 and 25mm/s to 60mm/s. But this time I used the pattern type alternate instead of standard and focused on the corners rather than the straight lines. I got 0.11 instead of 0.055 i.e. twice my original value. A reprint did turn out better than before. So I guess the speed change from 25mm/s to 60mm/s is not enough to simulate cornering events. I will settle with K0.11 for now. Letās see how other objects turn out with this setting.
Inconsistent wall canopies thickness can be caused by various factors, and you seem to have already tried many of the common solutions. However, here are some other suggestions that may help:
Check for mechanical issues: Make sure that your printerās frame is sturdy and that there are no loose screws or belts. Check that the X, Y, and Z-axis movement is smooth and consistent, and that there is no binding or slipping during printing.
Calibrate your extruder: Verify that your extruder is calibrated accurately and that it is providing the correct amount of filament. This can be done using a calibration cube or by measuring the extruded filament with a caliper.
Adjust your extrusion multiplier: Try adjusting the extrusion multiplier in your slicer settings to fine-tune the amount of filament being extruded.
Use a different slicer: Itās possible that the issue lies with your slicer settings. Try using a different slicer, such as PrusaSlicer or Simplify3D, to see if that helps.
Check your filament: Ensure that your filament is high quality and stored correctly, away from moisture and dust. Low-quality filament or improperly stored filament can lead to inconsistent results.
Experiment with print temperature and speed: Try printing at different temperatures and speeds to see if that makes a difference. Some filaments, such as PETG, may require higher temperatures to print consistently.
Consider upgrading your hotend: If all else fails, you may want to consider upgrading your hotend to a higher quality one, such as an E3D v6 or a Micro Swiss all-metal hotend.