How to adjust Work Origin for printing on Snapmaker Original?

I recently set up and started using my Snapmaker Original 3-in-1 printer, for now mostly printing accessories and tools for the printer itself, such as a telescoping dust cover to keep scrap material from getting into and clogging the axes.

However, one print I completed that is now giving me trouble is a “quick change” assembly designed to allow the 3 heads to be interchangeable via friction-locked wedge plates, rather than having to unscrew and unplug the current module, which is a hassle with the enclosure (Link to parts in question: snapmaker 2.0 quick tool changer by fips - Thingiverse). The assembly only offsets the current machine head by 10mm in the positive Y direction, but I have yet to figure out how to make Luban acknowledge this and compensate in its G-Code instead of having to avoid the first cm of build plate in Luban or risk parts and/or rafts just falling off mid-print. I tried using Work Origin controls in Workspace, but apparently those are only really used for the laser and CNC modules, as the printer just starts from its default position (front left side of build plate, plus 10mm in Y) even after I click Set Work Origin at the plate corner. I tried looking into 3rd-party slicing software only to find many of them only have native support for the Snapmaker 2.0 models, not the Original.

Trying to find help on this has been a pain for some of the above reasons (Work Origin only pertaining to laser/CNC, Original model having little support compared to 2.0), so any help is appreciated.

It’s not great, but you can manually move the piece using the 4 arrow icon on the left. Just select the object, click on that, type “10” and hit enter.

I think the original would need some firmware support to handle this, since it thinks (0,0) is the front left corner. Even if you told the slicer that the bed is 125mm x 115mm, it would still try to print 10mm off the front of the build plate.

If you really want to make it work, your best bet is probably to drill and tap a new set of holes for the Y or Z axis mount. Shift one of them 10mm to correct for the offset. Moving the Z axis back would keep everything above the build plate. But the length of the axis means your work needs to be very careful (I’d use a drill press instead of a hand drill) and smooth (slightly counter sink those holes from above). Moving the Y axis forward means it’ll hang off the front of the base plate a bit, but since it’s got so much contact with the base place, accuracy and precision are less important (I’d still counter sink those holes though).