I’ve been trying to get the Ray frame together and hate to say it…but Its got me puzzled, or perhaps I’m confusing my self.
The left hand Y cable comes out of the Y frame at the front left side (nearest my left hand).
The gantry is on & the module is fitted facing me, front side of gantry.
The Right hand Y cable comes out of the frame at the other end (at the back) Not nearest me.
I have watched the wiki video of the assembly and their cables are both at the front Left & Right, before they fit any cable clips or do anything else.
Has anyone got a clue as to where I went wrong…I followed the assembly instructions step by step but must have made an error somewhere along the way.
Feel like an idiot having to ask, but it’s got me stumped!
Pleased to meet you all by the way, I’m quite impressed by the quality of the Ray and looking forward to using and chatting about it. I’m building my own enclosue and starting off with the 20w & IR1064 modules.
When built, both the front to rear axis (Y) cables come out the rail on the front of the machine, on the outside of the machine. The Cross Axis (X) come out the right rear side of that rail.
The cables then run against the rails and collect at the rear, then head to the controller.
I think you have your X and right hand side Y rails flipped upside down.
This pic is taken from the back…so looking at it from the front…this Y rail is on the left side and the cable comes out of the Y rail at the back.
The X cable is on the right hand side.
I dont remember seeing any SM name or QR code printed on the underside of the left rail, so did not consider it to be upside down, and the SM info is printed on the up-side.
That second rail definitely looks like it’s upside down.
I just looked at mine, and (looking from the front), My right hand rail has writing on the top at the front, nothing on the bottom. The left has writing on the bottom at the front. So it’s possible if yours are the same, that one flipped upside down… Looking at your pics the left from the front need to be flipped over. Both my Y Rails have cables coming out the outside front.
The right Y and left Y should be mirror images of each other.
I have sent an email to snapmaker explaining the situation but unfortunately cant send them an image as my gmail cannot access files on my phone for some reason.
I tried flipping the Left rail as suggested but it cannot be done.
When I placed the two rails beside each other it seems obvious why!
The two rails are identical in every aspect and therefore cannot be aligned in opposition to each other.
I think the rails are ok. In my opinion you have to rotate the rail not mounted to the x axis in your photo so that the cable comes out at the front (like the cable comes out from the rail you have mounted to the x axis in your photo) and that the text is facing down to the bottom.
I’ll have another go at it tomorrow when back at the workshop.
I’ll also go over the wiki this evening. I do remember feeling a bit disoriented by the camera angles in the build instructions but thought I was ok until realising the Left cable was at the back.
Today I flipped and turned the left rail to have the silver strip facing inside but it left the PRINT on the underside, or the silver strip on the outside, as well as X/Y bracket not situated correctly, and if I were to swap rails I would still have identical problem because both rails are the identical same.
The left rail wire MUST exit the frame on the frames left side at the front…for it to be clipped along the outside left of that rail…Just as the Right rail wire exits the frame on the right side at tbe front, to be clipped along the outside right of the frame, While having the SM print at front end and on top.
This would make the two rails a mirror image of each other…but they are not mirror image, they are identical.
So if I rotate/swap them, I end up with the same thing.
In the photo you may see the Print is to the front and both prints face the same way…If they were mirrored they would be read from opposite directions.
The Right hand rail seems fine, with PRINT, wire and silver strip all in correct position…and X axis also…fine.
If I adjust the X axis I thereby only reverse the build direction…and end up with the same issue!
Im wondering if I got the brackets mixed up, but I know all was going to plan at that stage.
Pleased to report your observations and solution worked and all is well.
If there are any other little counter intuitive maneuvers or tips worth knowing along the way to first burn I’d apreciate the head’s up.
My tip for first ( and subsequent burns) is: make sure the SD card is fitted!
I assumed that the code was transferred to the controller, but I think it runs every time from the card.
Thanks Chris, I’m just getting into the building of an enclosure with some shaped ‘opal perspex’ and a 10" fan to push the air through enclosure, a base to run the cables out of sight and sorting out a laptop that I had put aside for something like this, Laptop has an issue since last startup so need to get that looked at, also lookin to adapt the module slider bracket for a bit more drop.
Another thought which came to me when you were saying about the air through the enclosure. Sounds like you might have it covered with increased airflow, but I’ve adapted so the laser cooling fan takes air from outside the enclosure.
Air from outside to module, Wow! did you use the same diam pipe as air assist…some 3d printing involved?
Yeah, First thing I said was “no way I’m letting the fan pull in that gunk”. I roast Coffee and the oil build-up is heavy and a bummer to clean…but it has to be done!
That micro gunk will get everywhere a Qtip cant and I’m no Techie.
Still working on the enclosure but time spent now is familiarity building as I go and time saved later.
With the fan pushing, the vent out will have to work well but its over a short distance from workbench to window at about 45 degree angle.
I was gonna do a sliding cover but decided on the good old hinges to avoid cable drag. Also dropping the work base protection to enclosure floor level to allow wind to travel along the veins…means doin an air scoop and extended bracket for the module, and also giving it a feedthrough for longer work.
Wasn’t gonna mention this cause it seemed a bit rad or mad…but has anyone ever looked at vacuuming out the fumes?
Hi Pete
I used some vacuum hose pipe and some lighter less flexible stuff where it didn’t matter. Yes, 3D printed parts, there are some files on the forum, though I have an A250 I don’t 3D print so I got them done elsewhere.
Anything you can do to stop fumes and the gunk in them getting in the laser has to be good, it’s a lot smaller fan and harder to clean. Needs far less attention now too.
Also just put an extension lead on the exhaust fan, it’s easier than trying to connect with the little box right at the back when I want to remove the fan for cleaning.
I also added a honeycomb base on top of the supplied one.
As you obviously appreciate, air flow will improve the look of cuts and hopefully reduce smoke marks and soot.
Good luck with your mission!
Chris
