Help, terrible beating noise

Jungs, bitte bleibt bei der internationalen Sprache, Englisch.
Zusätzlich Deutsch ist ok, aber nicht so. Bitte!


English:
Guys, please stick to the international language, English.
Additionally German is ok, but not like this. Please!

1 Like

Damit ich es richtig verstehe:

Die Unregelmäßigkeiten in der Oberfläche korrelieren mit den schlagenden Geräuschen. D.h. ohne Geräusche ist die Oberflache gleichmäßig, mit Geräuschen hast du horizontale Linien.

Und das Auftreten der Geräusche liegt nicht an schlechten oder defekten Linearschienen, sondern vermutlich an zu hohen Temperaturen der Schrittmotoren.

Den ganzen Aufwand mit Anforderung neuer Schienen kann man sich also sparen, falls man ähnliche Probleme hat.

Dass Snapmaker in neueren Modellen die SHAC Schienen einbaut, liegt dann vielleicht nicht daran, dass die alten Schienen häufiger Probleme bereiten, sondern evt. einfach an der besseren Verfügbarkeit.

English:

So to understand it correctly:

The irregularities in the surface correlate with the beating sounds. I.e. without noise the surface is even, with noise you have horizontal lines.

And the occurrence of the noise is not due to bad or defective linear rails, but probably because of too high temperatures of the stepper motors.

So we can save ourselves the effort to requesting new rails from Snapmaker in case we have similar problems with our machine.

The fact that Snapmaker installs the SHAC rails in newer models is probably not because the old rails causing problems, but perhaps simply because of better availability?

Ich habe mir jetzt mal Folgendes bestellt:

Elkalub Fett GLS 135/N1 als Kompromiss zwischen dem NLGI 0 was manche als zu flüssig finden und dem NLGI 2 was wiederum zu fest sein soll. Mal schauen was da kommt.

Folgendes Kanülenset von Amazon: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B09633J5SW
Und noch dazu noch ein Spritzenset: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B094J8TQXK

Damit sollte ich für alle Schmiernippelgrößen gewappnet sein. :wink:

English:

I have now ordered the following:

Elkalub Fett GLS 135/N1 as a compromise between the NLGI 0, which some find too liquid, and the NLGI 2, which in turn is said to be too firm. Let’s see what’s coming.

The following needles set from Amazon: See link above

And a set of disposable syringes: See link above

So I should be prepared for all grease nipple sizes. :wink:

2 Likes

Hello Snapmaker J1 users!

I have found the following error on my machine: (I haven’t seen this error described by anyone else. Or maybe no one has noticed it yet!)

The X-axis (SHC) linear carriages, to which the printer heads are attached, are rattling very strongly on the linear rail. This results in a swing of 1-2mm at the nozzle position! What will happen after 200-300 operating hours if it is already so loose at 0 operating hours? I have never seen such poor quality linear units even from the cheapest Chinese manufacturers!

This error also negatively affects the leveling of the bed, as at the points of contact of the leveling points, the printer heads can move upwards, as they normally hang downwards due to their own weight. This leads to incorrect bed leveling. Therefore, to ensure good adhesion, the “Z” value must always be readjusted. With a machine of this speed, the print head is also likely to move during rapid “Y” directional movements. Although the forces are minimal, it is not normal for the heads to “wobble” to such an extent and so easily. This makes the prints unattractive as the layers are shifted back and forth. This can be especially noticeable in models with straight sidewalls. I will try to upload a video and picture of the error. I haven’t experienced any issues with the “Y” linear rails.

I also had the error and it gets worse.
Write to the support and ask for a replacement!
The new ones are flawless…

may is that the problem where my rattle sound is come from.

but anyway the support dont answer my mails since 2 weeks and i have damaged non working 1600 buck printer here.

Thats realy bad feeling. Im very disapointed

The leadership @ Snapmaker right now:

:face_with_peeking_eye:

:rofl::rofl: yeah could be possible

Danke für den Tip mit dem Kanülenset! Nur paß mit den Spritzen auf - das sind keine Luer-Lock-Spritzen, und das Fett kann die nur aufgesteckte Kanüle schneller von der Spritze runterdrücken, als Dir lieb ist. Das gibt dann eine schöne Sauerei.

Besser wären diese hier: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0B4VBJC2T


Thanks for the hint with the needle set! But take care with those syringes, these ones are not Luer-Lock syringes, and the grease can push off the needle easily. That might happen faster than you might expect and will cause quite a mess.

These ones might be better: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0B4VBJC2T

I have the same problem, have written to support and asked for a replacement.

I used the same set of cannulas from Amazon and I was wondering: could you perhaps measure the outer diameter of the olive ones? They are supposed to be 14G and thus a good candidate for greasing the Y linear rails (with some filing first). In my pack they were all unfortunately way to small for this task (1,84 mm instead of 2,1 mm).
And I would also be curious which cannula you used for the X linear rails. I have SHAC rails and my best fit were the black ones (19G). This goes a bit against what the spec sheet for SHAC says - Mechanikus and me were wondering how that could be.

Did the lubrication just today. Used the 20G for the X rail. I too have SHAC rails. It seemed to work as some grease was pushed out on the top and bottom of the carriage where the balls are rolling. So the grease must have found its way into the carriage. A bit of grease came out of the hole as well. So the 20G might be a little bit too small. Maybe a filed down 19G might be perfect.

And found the same as you that the 14G has the same outer diameter as the 15G. Just the inner diameter is wider aka the wall is thinner.

Ordered this set now: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0BKL8G6FX

The 14G should be 2,1 mm outer diameter according to the description. Maybe I have to file it down a bit to fit the hole.

Did they fit on a special injector ? Or can be use normally

Can tell you once they arrive.

Hello, do you have any idea where the squeaking noises can come from. When moving the Y axis in the middle of the line guide, I have these noises. I can’t tell if it’s coming from the left or the right. Could it be the linear rails?

here is the link to my video

Not sure, but the rear idler pulleys on the belts could be.
A little oil is enough

Weird sound. I would tend to exclude the linear rails - in my experience these things are silent of they are okay or they rumble if damaged, but I never heard them squeaking. Such a noise comes from metal sliding over metal without sufficient lubrication.

Try to focus your hearing in order to narrow down the source first - simple aids such as an empty kitchen paper roll used as an ear trumpet might help already.

@Mechanikus

German:
Ich habe die blöden Schlaggeräusche immer noch, aber ich kann es jetzt eingrenzen.
Wenn die X und Y Achse zusammenarbeiten, z. B. eine Rundung, dann macht er das, als wenn das beim Bremsen von einer der Achsen passiert.
Aber was mich fertig macht, je länger der Druck benötigt, desto häufiger tritt es auf.
Mach, mal kommt dann sogar ein “Quiek” Geräusch ganz kurz dazu, als wenn man einen Motor festhalten würde, oder ein Motor irgendwie nicht weiter kommt.
Kann das sein, dass es die Stepper sind, die zu warm werden und dadurch nicht mehr korrekt arbeiten können?

Das Klappern, was zu hören ist, kommt von dem Bauteilelüfter, die Rotoren klappern, wenn der Drucker diese Schlaggeräusche macht.

Das kommt im Video leider nicht so gut rüber, ich wünschte jemand könnte das mal live erleben.

Enlish:
I still have the stupid impact noise, but I can narrow it down now.
When the X and Y axles work together, such as a rounding, it does that as if it happens when braking from one of the axles.
But what gets me, the longer the pressure takes, the more often it occurs.
Mach, times comes then even a “squeak” noise very briefly to it, as if one would hold a motor, or a motor somehow not further comes.
Could it be that it’s the steppers that are getting too warm and can’t work properly as a result?

The clattering that can be heard comes from the component fan, the rotors clatter when the printer makes this impact noise.

Unfortunately, this doesn’t come across so well in the video, I wish someone could experience it live.

Klingt, als wäre da irgendwas ein bisschen lose und tritt vor allem bei spontanen Richtungswechseln auf, oder?

Sounds as if something would be slightly moving at rapid direction changes?

@Miq19
Wie geschrieben, das Klappern meine ich nicht, das sind die Bauteilelüfter…
Richtungswechsel, ja, aber gerade Richtungswechsel weniger, mehr bei Rundungen oder Schrägen…

As written, I don’t mean the rattling, that’s the component fans…
Directional changes, yes, but straight directional changes less, more on curves or slopes…