FYI: Snapmaker 2 & Enclosure Fan Information plus alternatives

CAVE: The link leads to a voltage controlled Fan. The temperature controlled is LFM1160TK

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@FlyByWire, Thaks a lot for the tip, I missed it :slight_smile:

Here should be the update:

Alternative PSU Fan 1
(~17 CFM, ~28 dBA)
Alternative PSU Fan 2 (~11-21 CFM, ~15-32 dBA, temperature controlled - thanks to @gpt1plon & @FlyByWire for the right link )
REMARK : The actual PSU cooling fan is quite good and not noisy, the alternatives are similar or slightly worse in CFM besides that to change it you have to dismantle the whole PSU. I would not recommend changing it.

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Sorry I am getting a bit confused by the thread and talking about third wires etc.
Thats the PSU case inner fan?

PSU Case Fan is the one on the back making most of the noise?

@DeltaT, the more noisy one is the PSU case fan indeed, 35mmx10mm, and it requires to change the polarity of the cable as @brent113 showed.

Can’t see his post in this thread?

Sorry for the delay.
It’s in the fan upgrade post:
3DP Part Cooling Fan 5015 Replacement

Thanks Franky :slight_smile:

@DeltaT This link actually: SM2 power module noise

@Franky :Isn’t 35mm instead of 25 mm ?

Yes, I already clarified upper. Unfortunately , cannot correct upstairs :slight_smile:

Anyone have any luck finding new hot-end cooling fan alternatives?

The ones linked above are completely different than what they probably were.

Opened PSU and found 25x25x10 and 60x60x10 fans
Going to replace with 40x40x10 and 60x60x15 by EBM-Papst


From 35 en 30dB to 16 and 22 dB with more CFM
unplugged the 25x25 for now (see

PSU did not get over 33C while 3D printing the new backplate for 40x40 here:

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make that over 70dB-A for the smallest one

Has anyone found any of these lower db fans in North America? Shipping from China takes over a month.

I have not replaced any of these, for breakage, but past experience with fans is that it will be easier (in time/aggravation) buying a whole fan than parts for a fan. Getting them working properly again after a repair is… Not worth it in my book.

Hi @Franky thank you very much for your guide, what do you think about SUNON MF40201V2-1000U-A99 for PSU (with replacement backside) and I am also confused by Hotend cooling, in your post there is 80x80x20, but link leads to 40x40x20/10 fans, also all replacement fans are 40x40. :slight_smile:

I’ve just opened up my PSU. The 60mmx60mm fan in mine was a “D60SH-12B” 20CFM 31dB 4000RPM, I’m wondering if the 25x25 fan was to address the lower powered fans in some of the “Great Wall” PSUs, and if they are even necessary with the higher powered fans, unless it’s only there to stop the LED driver from overheating? I’ll be running tests

I think these would be the better fan to replace if the LED driver is fine and you have a “2404kl-04w-b30” fan in there, if the temps are higher than I’d like or it’s still too noisy after taking out the 25mmx25mm I’ll give a “GDT6015S12V2P2.54” a go, they look good on paper (a little too good).


Did you open up the front too? Just behind the front grill, there is a plastic (acting as a diffusor for the “fancy” light), which blocks over 95% of the air intake. Take it out and you can also take out the noisy backpanel fan, because now the bigger power supply fan (which is pretty quiet) can easily get all the air it wants. Keep the diffuser there and you really need the noisy little fan to suck out air from the box that is almost as air tight as a balloon.

If you like the light, you can replace the plastic air blocker with some white air filter. I found some leftover from the generic stuff you put over the air outlet of your vacuum cleaner. I split in half to make it thinner and printed a lighweight frame to hold it. I diffuses the light equally well, but lets the air through (and the power supply dust free as a bonus). In the end I took out the leds, its only two small screws and a plug. To me the constantly changing light was so annoying that the first thing I ever printed was a mount to hide the PSU under the table. Taking the leds out further improve air flow to the actual power unit fan.

To test the temperature without back fan and front blocker, I monitored the temp inside the PSU during a couple of large ABS jobs (A250 with nozzle at 260/bed at 90 deg). It never went above 37 deg Celsius inside the PSU box. A month later I made a small fan adapter and installed a silent 40x10 fan to be safe (or because I liked to tinker?). Anyway, after making the air inlet 1000% larger by throwing away the plastic, the small fan does not really need to do much compared to before. The bigger fan cools down the actual power unit, and the small one was probably only needed because they blocked the air intake to diffuse the stupid light.

As for the bigger fan on the power unit, I did not touch it. It is silent as it is and being inside the box blocks out sound even more. Yes, I can hear it when I stand next to the machine and turn it on, but a couple of steps further away it gets drowned by background noise, even when the snapmaker isn’t doing other noises. I think it is better to know that the fan is actually working than it to be completely silent, but that is of course only my opinion.

P.S. I really can’t understand the thinking behind the design here. They block the all important air flow to cool the power supply, just make a totally unnecessary, if not outright annoying, light for a stupid power supply!?! And in the process they have to make it awfully noisy. But yeah, we all like to spend our time watching a light go on and off and we can always cover our ears with headphones. Seriously, when I saw this, I lost any and all respect for the design of the snapmaker. This seems to be overpriced bling bling for fanbois, not a tool for makers.

I guess ita cooling the capacitors of the power loss recovery. Higher temps are aging capacitors faster…

Yes, them too, but if the air could move freely the small fan would not be needed, or at the most, very low revs would suffice (=practically silent). As it is now, it needs to work hard at very high revs, because there is only a very small air gap at the front of the box. It is easily fixed if you can live without the lights, otherwise you need something to partly block the very strong light (preferaly without blocking the air…).

Well, those capacitors don’t get warm at all, I’ve only seen them at 33 degree’s with ambient temps at 28 degrees. I have only been laser cutting though. As for the intake, I didn’t modify it at all I think it’s fine with volume of air able to get into the internal PSU, there is a noticeable amount of air being thrown out the back of the enclosure that isn’t getting warm. I’ll keep monitoring when I move into printing and CNC, the Hotend + Heatbed or CNC motor + Rotary module might draw enough to make things toasty, time will tell.

@kaitzu I’m not sure about your PSU as there seems to be some variants between them but mine has a cutout that is the same size as the shroud that the LED’s are mounted on, I wouldn’t expect removing it to help all that much in my case since the same volume of air needs to go through that shroud.