Hello togehter,
now i have order a spool Flexible Filament for testing.
What are the settings in Luban for printing with Flexible Filament ?
In Luban i can only see PLA and ABS ?
Regards
Michael
1 Like
You have to make a custom profile.
Have a look at this:
Hope this helps!
1 Like
I must say that these setting did work for me. Although I had to use the Brim:10 as my print would start coming off the plate. and that worked great. Also I have used the flexible adapter to support the filament going into the hot end.
I used your settings and still having problems with constant output from the nozzle. What few lines were printed was extremely difficult to remove, especially the white material which was on the bottom of the test line. I could not get it off with alcohol or even scrapping. How did you get yours clean?
Is the Brim:10 some kind of spray adhesive? Also what kind of flexible adapter did you use and where can I find one? Thanks much,
âBrimâ is a slicer adhesion setting that adds a one-layer area around the base of your model to make it stick better and keep it from warping. The flex adapter can be found in the thread @xchrisd linked above (itâs the 36th post, from the look of it). If youâre having problems with things sticking so thoroughly to the build plate that they canât be removed, cover the bed with blue painterâs tape or coat it with acid-free gluestick.
Thank you for your help. I will hold on the flexible adapter as I do not want to void my warranty. I checked the settings and Luban does not have a setting for Brim. As for the painterâs tape: can I still use a heated bed? Most of my filaments call for a heated bed. Thanks much in advance.
What kind of plate are you using? I am having the exact opposite with the magnetic plate on my A350. I cannot get it off. Had to order another plate. I will not use a magnetic plate again for this material.
If it is impossible to remove, you are too near to the bed. You have to use a spatula to rub it off.
If you are a 3d print beginner, donât start with flexible prints, this would give you headache.
1 Like
I thought that I would post on this topic since Iâve been experimenting with TPU on my Snapmaker 2.0 F350.
I ordered some Novamaker TPU with a shore hardness of 95A. It recommends a hot end temperature of 200-235.
There were plenty of issues with extrusion. Like, it wouldnât.
Based upon what Iâve read, the flexible filament may have a tendency to bend inside the print head AFTER the extrusion motor and before it gets pushed into the hot end.
In remedy, I printed the little part that I located on Thingiverse which narrows the path that the filament follows and does not allow the space for it to bend.
Then, I figured that I would increase the pinch pressure on the extrusion gear. To do this, I added two 1.5mm (about the thickness of a penny) washers between the spring and the the little roller lever that it connects to. That way there is just a little more pressure on the pinch roller. 3mm (two washers) solved my problem and does not hinder extrusion when loading PLA, PETG or ABS.
Extrusion was now good. I found 225C was my sweet spot. I had some issues with it staying on the stock bed however. So I read some more⊠Some recommended printing to an unheated plate and others recommended 60C. I was unable to maintain adhesion.
Then I ordered a borosilicate (pyrex) glass plate. Added that. Recalibrated for the new Z settings.
âŠand Iâve been printing TPU with a shore hardness of 95 with no problems at all on the glass bed. Not heating the bed at all. I only had one instance where I had a smaller part of a print come loose during the print. I quickly paused the print, hot glued the âproblem partâ to the plate and finished it.
BTW⊠removing prints from the glass has thus far NOT been a problem. I am not using tape, aquanet, glue stick or any of the other myriad of products that I had in the past.
Now⊠because I am apparently a masochist, I am trying to get shore hardness 85A filament to print. Itâs pretty ârubberyâ and providing me with plenty of challenge to extrude consistently.
Most people have found the opposite works better - lessening the pressure on the filament. Some have used just a piece of tape to keep door closed. With the 85A you might be grinding the extruder gear teeth into it too much.
The two main keys of getting flexible filament to adhere are slow down, and reduce retraction to almost nothing (if not 0).
One last thing, when loading the SM always loads at the same speed. With most filaments this isnât a problem but with softer ones it pushes too hard and fast. Thatâs when you really tend to get the filament bunching up in the head that the adapter prevents. Loading manually and just pushing the filament through to start can help this.
-S
1 Like