My enclosure for the A350 is sitting quite close to the back wall and I’d like to avoid having to move it forward so far that the provided flexible pipe could bend.
So I am thinking, if I created a flat L shape that directly attaches to the the back outlet (with the 4 screws going through the ventilator) and a couple flat pieces that would go along the wall until I have another circle where I could attach the whole. That’s feasible right?
Anybody got an idea how to get started? what would the measurements of the adapter be? What should be the cross section area of the flat pipe? Same as the circle?
Keep in mind that by doing a 90’ L you will increase duct static and reduce the airflow… with it that close to the fan and the type of fan used it will likely have a significant impact on the CFM output of the fan. If you want to do.that I would recommend using a reverse incline fan and moving the fan to the end of the pipe.
You’d probably be better off moving the location of the outlet to the top or the side.
It would take some work and have to print some adapters but no more than what you’re proposing. For my homemade enclosure I found adapters for standard dryer vent tubing and a 120mm fan on Thingiverse.
well, I didn’t think it would be such a problem. the flexible pipe does already have a lot of friction versus smooth inner walls. Also, if the cross section area remains the same, then the same volume of air can be moved, right?
This is a fluid dynamics issue, tight corners will affect the flow and reduce the efficiency of the piping. To keep the flow consistent you will need to account for that.
I should add that an inline fan is not difficult and might be the easiest way for you to do what you want and ensure enough flow. We did an inline fan.
Your duct or piping system will have to be sized based on the fan you buy, we used 4" because we use that in our wood shop and fans in the US are easy to find in this size so we printed an adapter to the enclosure. Our main reason for the mod was to ensure effective air clearing and it works great.
Thanks for the input. I guess I’ll try to find another solution which doesn’t hinder air flow as much. For now I pulled my work desk forward enough to just have the space at the back.
I’m sure what I’ve done here is a big no-no. I just notched one side of the provided fan duct fitting (as in cut out the round cylinder wall from an entire 90 degree section minimum) and slapped this little filter box on it, which is packed with charcoal filter bags I can swap out.
I still smell a little bit of burnt wood while lasering but not too much. I can feel good airflow with my hand at the vents in my filter box. Anyway, I’m sure a similar solution would let you adapt to a rectangular profile. As others have said you might want a supplemental fan at the far end to help with air draw since you will be constricting flow right ‘at’ the fan.
Even in my pic with only the part of the fitting that was intended to slip into the hose notched it’s obvious there’s still a good inch or so of depth to the enclosure outer face. I’m sure you could design your own 3D printable total replacement that would smoothly direct the flow 90 deg with a lower profile than the hose diameter and save a little room without too much constriction.
Would you be willing to share the STL file for that filter? I’m doing wood right now and the garage is stinky – enclosure coming but I’m still trying to figure out how to vent outside given no real good window access.
Sure. Here they are I think. Not at my upstairs work computer right now but I’ll try to check the hardware size and edit this post. Don’t overextrude the nut holes are pretty tight by design so they don’t slip out.
You should see how the filter just ‘slides’ onto the duct at the fan, so to get airflow you’ll have to notch out about 1/4 of the cylindrical wall, in whatever orientation you choose.
I know I’m necromancing an old thread, but I did a revamp of this filter block holder recently to quadruple its internal volume for more of the carbon foam thingies, and also to move the filtration slots to the far end from the duct to hopefully force more of the filter volume to be traversed before any smoke makes it out. Preparation for 10W laser plus was never entirely thrilled with the first results, could still smell ply burning smoke a bit more than I wanted (but it did reduce it enough the smoke detector in this same room only about 5-6m away (straight line) never went off!).
If anyone wants it uploaded let me know, I’ll either upload here or to Thingiverse. There’s a couple minor features I might edit for someone else so you don’t have to “rig” it like I did (first print design hassles but not bad enough I need to reprint, superglue to the rescue!)
Parts are sized to fit the A250 bed; 4 parts total (main housing, extended housing, lid for each). You could probably fit 2 pieces to the bed at once but I did one at a time to keep centered and less likely to have adhesion/warping issues.
It had some flaws I kind of ‘papered over’ (screw holes not tight enough for screws to actually bite, things like that) that I don’t think I ever edited out. I just injected a little superglue or E6000 into the holes to help things hold better, or actually glued the lids on - don’t remember entirely now.
I also might’ve ruined the original design as shown here, because it’s been extended to four segments that reverse into a tupperware box packed with more filtration, and a supplemental fan on the far end (outlet), since then:
The original didn’t actually provide enough filtration for longer sessions with plywood…
Looks like I do still have all the STLs for that though…total 8 pieces, assumes you have the original round outlet from the snapmaker and find or buy a similar one for the top end. Let me know if you really want them.
They make ‘thin’ dryer exhaust setups. I don’t know the size but you could print an adapter I’m sure. I had a similar problem in my last house for my dryer.
