While connected to WiFi, you can enter “M412 S0” into the console and disable the sensor.
I had this same problem. The filament, in an effort to unload, backed up and BEHIND the lever on the microswitch. It was stuck so bad it took totally disasembling things, and of course the switch was broken.
While following the video that shows how to re-align the filament microswitch, I noticed that the black plastic top holding the lever arm was loose. Upon further investigation, the black plastic top is held to the microswitch body, by two tabs, each just 3mm wide. Was going to use some UV adhesive to reattach the black top, but it completely broke loose before I could reattach it.
At this point, it appears I need to replace the entire microswitch. Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number for a replacement switch? Is there a replacement switch of better quality? With the overall quality of my Snapmaker 2.0 A350, I was a bit surprised to find such a low-quality micro-switch.
Have you reached out to @Edwin? This seems like it would be covered by warranty. Worth a shot.
Thank you for the suggestion. I figured that my SnapMaker would be beyond the warranty period, but it looks like it may still be within the warranty period. I assumed that it would have a 6-month warranty period, but it appears that in the US the warranty period is 1 year. Much better warranty period, than what I was expecting.
For now I submitted a support request, instead of directly reaching out to the suggested @Edwin. I’ll reach out to @Edwin, if for some reason the formal support request doesn’t work out. I suspect though that it will work out. Already received a semi-automated response, from the formal support request.
Edwin is no longer with the company.
Looks like @Tracy has taken over his duties.
-S
@sdj544 Yes, Edwin has left. Now there are several supports in the forum actually. We will try our best to provide services in the forum.
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My out of filament micro switch on my A350 went bad. I see no sense in buying a whole print module. Can you give me the part number of the switch so i can just replace the switch?
They seem to have a proprietary switch for this application. I have tried to find a replacment, and while I was finding some that were smaller than most, it still didn’t fit.
The same switch is located (soldered to a PCB I believe) inside of the linear modules if you have a bad one of those. I never bothered trying to harvest mine yet, but snapmaker confirms it is the same one.
The closest I found to the one in the head was a crouzet model, but it was too wide.
You CAN bypass the switch by making a contact closure between the two wires (connect the two wires together) to the switch if you don’t mind losing the filament runout recovery (which frankly isnt super reliable IMO, I just had mine fail to trigger and instead call a power loss recovery 2 weeks ago).
Thanks… Didnt they advertise no propriety items? If I find one I will let jou know…
Da
Not that I am aware of. Proprietary may be a harsh word, someone may have it in their catalog, but its certainly an unusual sized switch.
The Omron D2F-01L was close as I was able to get, can’t remember if it’s been confirmed to work or not work, but I think the dimensions match up.
Thats worth getting one to try. Ill take a look.
Any idea what the subcomponent switch is in that assembly? Preferably a part number that can be ordered from digikey or mouser and soldered on?
From all the research I’ve done on this I’ll propose this as the full specification for the filament runout switch:
12 x 6 x 6mm, SPDT, Microswitch, Simulated Roller Lever, Snap Action
For the linear modules instead of “simulated roller lever” it would just be a “hinged straight lever”
The switches you linked claim to be 125VAC 1A, but the application is 24VDC milliamps range, and the 30VDC .1A rating is higher rated (more demanding than AC when breaking current). So the Omron 30VDC 100mA is actually a more appropriate current and voltage spec, as it’s actually rated for DC application, however in this application either will clearly work…
The Omron D2F-01L3 or Omron D2F-L3 meets that spec with the roller lever. The D2F-01L would be the straight lever.
Left and right PCB terminals are also available:
Those KW10 switches you linked (uxcell, in this case) look good too. On AliExpress and Ebay there are many more under the KW10 microswitch type.
Personally, I like to stick with Omron and other known switch manufacturers, I’ve had a lot of those amazon-type switches fail prematurely.
They didnt have all of the various flavors on newark in stock and i didnt wana screw around much so i got one of the first style of simulated rollers and one straight blade
My switch in my hand is measuring closer to 5mm than 6 mm in the two directions but it might just fit, we will see 
being super specific, this one in my hand, without the lever or pins, is measuring approx 5 mm tall x 11.75 long and 5.75 mm deep.
Ill let ya know if she fits or not 
The low force switch is probably he better choice too, but if shes a nice tight fit it will probably be good
edit: i take it back, my calipurs slipped, 5.75 tall x 12.75 wide x 6.75 wide. this may be the correct switch if the simulated lever is the same profile. the profile of the one in the machine was different than the profile from the crouzet switch.
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I got in an omron switch, it wasn’t the one with the simulated roller lever that one is still coming. the body size and hole pattern is a match though, so its a matter of which of the two simulated levers they used 
A little creativity and i could fashion this one into usable state as well.
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Good news everyone, Omron D2F-01L3-D3 works for this application.
Triggers well, lever fits. Solder tabs. Feels pretty good.
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My brand new A350 got the same problem! Looking at the microswitch is was a bit melted and the black top came apart. Without filament the switch is closed. So I removed the remaining metal part and could start printing immediately. So joining the wires will result in a persistent ‘no filament’ warning, certainly no bypass…
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Hallo, ich hatte das gleiche Problem und es ist eindeutig ein Materialfehler vom Schalter.
Bei der Demontage ist mir aufgefallen, das ein “Klemmhaken” am schwarzen Teil - Oberteil abgebrochen ist. Den Bügel habe ich etwas nachgebogen und wieder eingebaut. Problem gelöst.
Etwas besser Qualität würde nicht zu solchen Fehlen führen.
Ich bin im Großen und Ganzem von der " inneren" Qualität enttäusch.