Since I have the new door, my DX is working fine, actually I’m really satisfied. My successes with breakaway support were not the best, but not due to how it printed, but due to how difficult it was to remove afterwards. I just did not see the advantage, but this may be because it is the Snapmaker stuff that came free with the DX - most likely not the spearhead of quality. In the meantime I got myself PVA, and this is nice as being water soluble, but also not perfect - the surface quality of the prints suffers. I try to print tiny tabletop miniatures with the 0.2 mm nozzle, and the results are very good, but when I remove the support, I always damage the print (or with PVA I’m not satisfied with the surface finish). A bit frustrating and the project is currently stalled, but I plan to pick this up again, and as soon as I’m successful I’ll share my findings in the forum.
Another thing with the DX: In combination with the Quick Swap Kit the DX weight + the additional lever from the QSK plate visibly bear down on the linear rail, the head slightly sagging. It becomes obvious when you do Z Auto calibration: You can see how the whole thing slightly lifts before the sensor triggers, which slightly spoils the measurement. Not a big deal, but I guess I’ll rather sooner than later follow others and add parts for more rigidity to my linear modules…
I figured out the heat creep problem and how to avoid it.
Determine the filament’s Vicat softening temperature and heat deflection temperature (HDT).
(HDT is the temperature the filament starts to deform under1.8MPa (261psi))
The temperature at top of the hot end must be lower than the HDT. I used an IR thermal camera to measure the temperature quickly after opening the extrueor door. If it is not so, there will be heat creep.
Be aware that some filaments must be enclosed and dispensed from a dry box in order to prevent adhesion, clumping, and bubbling problems. Note that plastic filaments can have significant property issues after absorbing a significant amount of moisture.
I used 3A Molecular Sieve Desiccant beads, STERILITE Gasket Box, PTFE fittings, PTFE tubing, and a Zigbee Humidity sensor.
After addressing these issues, i have been having consistent success.
Finally got it working. I’d never used the snapmaker filament holder or tried out the tubes… that appears to have fixed all my issues along with the new door. It’s super sensitive to drag.
If you can gently rotate the print head up-and-down or move it back-and-forth when the printer is powered-on but not moving, it could indicate that the linear module internal slider adjustments are needed.
If you are getting good printout results, do not bother making adjustments.
I did the X-axis Linear Module slider rail roller distance and worm-gear backlash adjustments. If you do these, you will also need to reference, how to install the steel strips.
Wiki.snapmaker.com has instructions, however they lack descriptive detail and the task is not easy.
The heavier weight of the dual extrusion module can make printing errors more pronounced. If you do these adjustments, be very careful not to damaging the limit switch. I removed the limit switch from the linear module in order to protect it, but later damaged it by applying to much torque to the two retainer bolts (the switch is made from plastic). Consider purchasing some limit switches before making these adjustments.
i had quite a few instances where the filament wraps and jams inside.
anyhow the board that the pins sit in cracks because the extruder is rolled over to the side trying to extract it. essentially if the extruder is hard to get out you can damage the boards/pins.
with the stl as reinforcement the board and pins are protected. the “roll” doesn’t happen
