This model is still NOT finished. Needs adjustments and more testing.
Hole is design for 4010HSL 12V fan. I connect it to external 12V power supply.
Snapmaker_DE_Door_with_fan_beta_20130515.stl (134.1 KB)
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Thanks! Would you mind sharing an editable file? got some different fans and would like to adapt one of those. dxf or dwg would be great, but anything that can be converted would work too.
If not, thats ok too!
Iâm using free version of Fusion 360 so I canât export to dxf or dwg but i created plane version for you (without holes for a fan).
Snapmaker_DE_door_20230517.stl (108.5 KB)
PS: This version should be âfinalâ but I havenât yet printed it.
PS2: I will post all versions to printables when Iâm done.
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Hi @Hauke,
I already have an open ticket with Snapmaker support. In my case the issue is with the left extruder.
I have updated the ticket with few replies after few tests but there was only a reply from them at the beginning:
Thanks for reaching out to Snapmaker.
I am sorry that you encountered such a problem.
At present, it is suspected that it has something to do with the heat dissipation of the module, which is also coupled with the working environment of the Dual Extrusion Module.
1ă If the left hot end is changed to the right extruder, is the printing on the right head normal? Use this to determine if the problem is in the hot end or in the extruder
2ăPlease observe whether the two fans facing the door are turned on.
3ăIf you are using an enclosure, please open the enclosure door when printing PLA material and print.
4ăIf you print with the module-door open, whether it will also be clogged ïŒ
Please feel free to contact us if there are further questions.
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Their approach to find the source of the problem doesnât seem too bad.
However I had several printjobs running with full heated bed and closed enclosure door for 40h+ and never reached a higher temp inside than 36°C.
Our Ultimaker at work does show decreasing print quality with PLA when it is fully closed and the ambient temp rises, thats why ultimaker advises that the doors have to be open with PLA, but I donât think that an ambient temperature like this should allow or be the reason for clogs.
I still got no problems with retract at extruder change down to 2mm, not even decreasing flow. Would anyone of you like to try the same?
My theory is, that the âtoo fast and to farâ retract of 16mm up in the cold zone causes cooling of the soft filament and thus making it stick to the walls leaving residue. This would explain my symptomatic with the âplastic sleeveâ left inside the cold zone and why the flow decreases over time as @MooseJuice experienced.
Improving the heat dissipation by adding thermal grease would in that case even worsen the problem as the still soft filament gets cooler on the way up and more will stick to the walls of the cold zone.
I reread the whole thread again, does anyone of you have the heatcreep problem when printing with only one nozzle/material? Couldnt see that information mentioned explicitly.
Or only when there are dual materials/ both nozzles in use?
So maybe try decreasing the nozzle change retraction distance to under 5mm with a dual print.
And try printing a âproblematicâ model with only one (problematic) nozzle to see if it is the nozzle change that causes problems.
@Hauke your problem with the increased diameter of the filament over the full length however does in fact sound like insufficiant cooling of the cold zone. Maybe a defective fan? Have you tried a different filament type? Same problem?
The reason why I ask this, is because I had extreme clogging on my ender3 with standard âextrudr PLAâ while other PLA from Geeetech worked flawless.
@elopan the first time I had the issue it was during a dual material printing. My first attempt to solve the clogging it was to swith towards a single material printing. Unfortunately this was not decisive enough.
ok thatâs strange then.
Did you thoroughly clean the hotend after the first clogging?
And have you reached any conclusions after the tests that support suggested?
Thanks, I was going to do something similar and your model was great to test the hypothesis of heat creep.
Based on my current evidence, there IS heat creep, and thatâs the cause of stuck filament.
I print in an enclosure, the temp inside is usually around 35C
I managed to find a print that reliably reproduced the issue, and the tip of the stuck filament is almost 2mm when I remove it :
- it occured even when using only the left extruder
- it occured even when reducing retraction frequency, speed, or distance
- still occured with retraction completely disabled
- the nozzle itself is never clogged (and Iâm using 0.6mm nozzles so they are harder to clog anyway)
Then i printed the new module door from mswietlicki and installed a spare fan I had.
After that, I finally managed to get my first print going to completion. Iâll do more tests to confirm this but this seems to be the right direction
My take is that the design from snapmaker is fundamentally flawed, and the stock fan are not the correct type to produce a steady and reliable flow of air on the radiator.
I think I will either modify the current design of the door slightly to avoid blowing air on the print as much as possible, or even design a whole new fan enclosure, move the blower fans for the nozzles outside, and free the space for axial fans to cool the heatbreak.
@mswietlicki with fusion, you should be able to export STEP file I think
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@elopan to answer some of your questions:
- My retraction settings are not very aggressive: 4 mm @ 25 mm/s, and 6 mm @ 25 mm/s at nozzle change (+/- 1 mm - just remember the values off the top of my head).
- I did not try other filament yet, but printing with the right nozzle my filament broadened, the exact same filament doing the exact same print on the left nozzle did not show even the slightest signs of broadening.
- Both of my heat sink fans are running, nothing wrong with them.
- The print that currently I base my âstatisticsâ on is nearly single color, but not quite. It is a large, white housing, which has some black letters inset. However, in both cases the print failed, the print was still in the âtwo colorâ phase. Each layer Iâd say had 95%+ white, and the rest black filament.
No answer yet from Snapmaker support, but thatâs OK, not in a hurryâŠ
Yes, I cleaned the hot end.
Not really a conclusion but maybe a clue: in my case, the clogging happen mostly with parts with many supports.
Ok in that case, I seriously have no clue whats going on, other than most likely insufficient cooling.
As I said, I also used thermal grease on one hotend and will do the fan mod soon.
Just as a baseline, atm no grease, no fan mod. Left core printing at 250°C, right core idling at 42°C and enclosure temp at 36.1°C Print time 52h.
Lets see if those numbers will be impacted.
thermal paste did not solve the issue for me on its own, adding a fan however was more effective
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Did anybody try putting one of these on the filament?
Maybe that together with low retraction distance would solve the clogging issues you guys are having?
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I never used such a filament cleaner - and I do not think that it would help in this particular case, since the problem is not âclassicalâ clogging due to dust, debris or dirt, but more a filament jam. Nevertheless, thanks for sharing!
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I have; I talked with @Jade on Facebook PM as well. I told her that the response back from support was to give me calibration advice.
@Jade This is what I described in the PM to you. Many of us are having this problem; I donât know if this issue isnât being elevated by support to a high enough level. There is a systematic issue with the DX.
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I would say the cleaning of dust is secondary. More important is that it lubes the inside of the heatbreakâŠ
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I think Iâm done. For a moment at least.
Snapmaker_DE_door_with_fan.step (153.8 KB)
Snapmaker_DE_door_with_fan.stl (160.5 KB)
Design for 4010HSL 12V fan with external power supply (but you can also use 5V fan or find a way to power it from within the module)
I use 10mm x 1mm magnet to hold the doors closed but a rubber band works fine.
Printed with ASA
Hope this will fix our issues.
Edit:
If someone wants to try I created version for 30x30mm 5V fan to be attached from the inside.
Snapmaker_DE_door_with_fan_30.stl (192.0 KB)
4 Likes
perfect, thanks! did you unscrew the topplate or the bottom to get the door out?
Thanks again mswietlicki
unfortunally, I did another test today and it failed despite the fan 
I need to try with a bigger one I think, or even a blower
Only top and only loosen. You do not have to remove it.