No, enclosure and head both closed. I do not see leaving these open as a valid solution.
Not for the Future, but maybe for a Testing purpose?
Thatâs very interesting. I do not see files for the mods and I would like to try the one with the fan on the module door.
Do you know how they work? Will we get mod files soon or should i dry to build on myself?
I did not see files either - not sure if theyâll follow up on that - perhaps write them a mail? Dunno⊠should not be too complicated to do yourself.
I use this extruder with a Prusaslicer and have never had clogged nozzles.
I wonder what in the world is different�
My settings are 1mm of retraction, 40mm/s, and under 10mm of retraction when switching nozzles for 2 color printling. I do not allow setting the temperature low durling printing.
I have been wondering if this might be a part of the clogging problem: If you let the filament cool down, the heat creepâd parts of the filament will start sticking, and not heat up fast enough again to get moving⊠But that would be a poor solution - heat creep should not happen in the first place.
I added new thermal paste (the first time it was old and dry and ineffective).
in my particular case, it seems to have actually had a detrimental effect. im not ready to call it 100% on that yet, but i am having a lot of weird globules and its causing prints to fail from nozzle crashing.
perhaps the problem now lies in the fact that now that the paste is in place, the heat transfer needs to be counteracted with lower temperature printing. i am not used to printing lower then i am right now, but i will give it a whirl.
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Just my observations but maybe they might be of help to you guys:
I have been busy dialing in CF Nylon filament and had about 20 benchys done without any clogs or heatcreep problems so far.
However when I started printing with PVA Support (or PVA Support interfaces to be exact) I suddenly had some heatcreep problems now and then.
What I have observed is that during long prints (48h+) my flow gradually decreased towards the end of the print. The prints finished but I had some strange behaviour that after a finished print the head was clogged immediately at the start of the next printjob.
Had this a few times, every time the clog reached up into the cold end, about 10mm or more.
I didnt have this problem with the PVA nozzle though, only with the one printing Nylon.
One time I changed the nozzle somewhere between two jobs and saw that inside the hotend something looking like a thin sleeve of plastic at the walls of the heatbreak had formed.
So my assumption is, that the retract at nozzle change might be the source of at least my problems.
The Nylon has the default setting of retracting 16mm at nozzle change, with standard standby temperature. So the filament retracts up into the coldend and starts sticking to the walls forming a sleeve, as long as the print is going, it doesnt fully cool down (standby temp) and still manages to extrude with ever decreasing flow, as the sleeve gets thicker. As soon as the job finishes, the temp goes down to 0° thus completely solidifying the filament and clogging the head.
The PVA has a standard retract at nozzlechange of 2mm as it is too flexible to retract further without forming a knot inside the extrudergears (tested this) and doesnt show this problem.
so my assumption is that the 16mm retract at nozzlechange is part of the problem.
I now got a 52h printjob running with Nylon retract at nozzlechange set to 2mm, hoping that this will solve the problem.
Oozing of the inactive nozzle is present, but managable as it stops as soon as standby temp is reached.
Interesting though. We got an ultimaker s5 at work, which also has a standard retract at nozzlechange of 16mm, but no problems like that. It hasnt been used very much for dual filament jobs though.
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Sorry for double post.
Some Ultimaker Users seem to have a similar problem with the 16mm retraction distance.
Raise3D for example recommends this setting:
The extruder retractionâs amount can be edited under the âOozeâ tab. Raise3D recommends maintaining the âExtruder Amount of Extruder-Switchâ between 2-4mm for any standard filament types, and from 6-10mm for Raise3D Premium PLA type of filament.
Flashforge users recommend 4mm at nozzle change.
Different setups I know, but similar problem.
Did you guys have the âheatcreepâ problem also with single nozzle prints, or always with dual colour prints?
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Thanks for sharing your insights! At least for me I can tell that I have the problem even with less retraction on nozzle change. The two prints that failed were with 4 mm retraction on nozzle change. I just have restarted my print, now with colors swapped, i.e. the white, dominant part of the print is now left nozzle, the smaller additions in black are right nozzle. Letâs seeâŠ
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I designed custom doors for an extra fan and Iâm testing it right now.
I still need to add bottom walls and a hinge and will post stl if someone would be interested to try them.
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Yeah⊠thought about something like that myself, but admittedly with the price Snapmaker charges for the head, Iâd expect them to come up with a solution. My right-nozzle-failed-twice-15hrs print (which in the end will most likely will end up around 18hrs) is now nearly 11h into the job and running fine so far (donât Jinx it!) with the bulk of work switched over to the left nozzle, so it really seems that they have a systematic problem with the right nozzle cooling. If my job succeeds, I certainly will reach out to support to get their opinion on that.
Personally I think that perhaps a few slits in the front door would have been enoughâŠ
Everything coming out of my extruder is garbage right now. I think I need to go back in and remove the thermal grease. I canât get anything to come out at all lol
The first few layers look fine then its just horrible, temperature, speed no effect lol
I am not really wanting to modify the door or remove the enclosure.
Furthermore, the DX module is alot heavier and the weight isnt balanced, I think that I need to make a support fror the DX like on the Y axis somehow. It wobbles quite a bit. I also just replaced the linear module a few days ago but no change, it sjust too bulky I think.
If your door can still be opened without removal, I would be willing to try it.
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Your DX wobbles? I guess youâve checked all screws⊠Although I agree that the DX is really heavy and the mounting is off-center, mine sits rock solid⊠Iâd be curious to see a video of the wobble.
Can it be that some thermal paste has gotten into the filament path and is now partly blocking the nozzle?
the module itself is fine, but the bracket has some play to it. it can shift up and down
It is possible that there is a partial blockage but its very strange that it prints really nice for some layers. ive been printing calibration cubes and about 10% of it is perfect then gets terrible
Hey @MooseJuice, what slicer are you using? If you happen to be using PrusaSlicer, or any of itâs derivatives, try setting the âExtrusion multiplierâ for whatever filament profile that you are using to 0.965. I recently updated all of my slicers and nothing would print properly, on any printer, after that. I found the source to be that PrusaSlicer is over extruding. There are some other bugs as well, for which there are work-arounds, but I wanted to check, so that you donât end up spinning your wheels and looking in the wrong direction.
absolutely interestedin the files! Saw other users do similar modifications.
How did you remove the door and where did you plug in the fan?
Blowing in air I guess?
This can be fixed - several people had this problem, usually the ball bearings need readjustment. There is something on this forum about it, and several videos can be found.
Edit: this seems to be a good starting point: Excessive play in x-axis linear module bracket - and this seems to be an official guide: https://support.snapmaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/1500000110341-What-should-I-do-when-the-carriage-slider-of-the-linear-module-is-loose-
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So, for me itâs âofficialâ: The right nozzle has a systematic issue. The print that failed twice when I let the right nozzle do the bulk of work now went through just nicely and in good quality when shifting to the left nozzle - 16:15 hours, no problems. There was a slight chance that the filament was the culprit, but I guess I can rule this out (although on small statistics). Iâll contact Snapmaker support about this, letâs see what they suggestâŠ
Just out of curiosity: Has anyone already been in contact with support on their heat creep issues?
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no ticket from my side so far.
i am cautiously optimistic, that the 2mm retract at extruder change solved my problem for now. Print looking good so far. Will open up the hotend after finishing though to check if another filament âsleeveâ has formed inside the heatbreak.
I have three hotends, everytime one clogged, i swapped fo my spare one. Every one of them at least once showed the same symptomatic, thats why I think that at least in my case the 16mm retract might be the source of the problem. Of course, if the filament could cool down sufficiantly and fast enough during the retraction, this should also decrease the problem.
I think thats why the 16mm retract are meant to be done with a slow retraction speed. Maybe lowering the speed at extruder change could give the filament more time to cool.
As I wrote, clogging in my case occurs mainly after finishing a printjob, will need to do a bit more observation to get to any substantial conclusions.
Will try the thermal paste âfixâ on the spare one i got out though.