OK. I apologize if this is a stupid question, but i have looked for an answer and came up dry.
When calibrating my a350t Dual extruder, it prints two items that look like wide-toothed combs. Nozzle 1 does all the heavy lifting, while nozzle 2 is used to put a stripe on top of what Nozzle 1 laid down. You are supposed to pick the one where the leavings of Nozzle 2 look the most centered on the leavings of Nozzle 1. No problems so far.
Calibrating X makes perfect sense. Left=Left, Right=Right.
But
Calibrating Y Does not Make sense to me. Y Axis, as one would expect, is a FRONT and BACK affair – not left and right – yet, the picture they give you on the controller is a Left to Right continuum. So, is Left Front, and Right Back? Or Vice Versa? This is totally ambiguous to me. Why would do this? Why couldn’t they at least put text under each end indicating “front” and “back”, or something to queue in to what you are looking at.
There is a little x and y but most times so bad of a print you cant see it.
Just rotate your view clockwise 90 and input the y values as such.
just a reminder looking at the machine so the x axis is in the left right view from the front.
Then:
left to right is -x to +x
Close to far on the y axis is +y to -y (Backwards since its from the point of the view of the print on the plate.) if you printed at y=50 the plate would be far away from you.
Bottom to top is -z to +z
I recommend dropping the auto calibrations, getting prusa or cura and doing it manually. It sucks but its better to measure and off set then only picking one by eye.
i try not to overthink this. you get two combs marked x and y. do not move your build plate after the “leveling” calibration done in a previous step.
take the combs off the build plate and look at them and enter the selection you see on the screen. one of the tricks for reading a comb is looking at the pattern as it shifts. you can see the left side and right side approaching each other. pick in the middle and look very closely at those. you will see one that is better then the next.
also write your selections down. when you do your calibration print it helps to remove it in its orientation to the build plate. that way when you have a tile the doesn’t break off you know that it is in the x or y direction.
usually if tiles are breaking off you are close and you can do your x/y calibration again using the above written values with one of them moved up or down by one spike. if you kept your orientation you know you need either x or y changes because that direction will have a stuck tile.
We have digressed, here. Just to be clear, the answer to my question can be summarized in the following statement with regards to the Y portion of the X/Y calibration:
Standing in front of the machine looking at the print-bed… The horizontal “comb” starts at the left and the vertical “comb” starts at the bottom (where the horizontal ends). Identify the “tooth” on each where the top print color is best centered on the bottom color. Removing from the print-bed prior to evaluation would run the risk of a mix-up so it’s probably better to leave them affixed until you’re ready to trash them. Hope this helps! Good luck in all you do!