I’m on my 2nd dual extruder as my 1st one was a complete disaster.
I’ve seen bits and pieces on various topics, but nothing 100% on how to calibrate a dual extruder on the Snapmaker 2.0 A350 in detail.
For instance how to do e-steps on the Snapmaker with the Bowden tubes.
Do we still need to use a shim on the right nozzle.
Etc…
Thank you!
First of all, load two types of difference colored pla to each nozzle.
After starting the machine it will guide you through the initial calibration of the x and y position difference.
This initial process has to be observed and the height live z offset has to be set on the touchscreen to optimize adhesion.
After this the second calibration is for setting the z offset (height difference of the nozzle) and xy calibration breakaway test.
For me the e-steps are on point so no more tuning needed.
Additional for prints, because dual color could be a mess:
Hope this helps a bit for the entry.
Thank you, but the recommended Snapmaker calibration ‘fails’ with Snapmaker filament.
The right nozzle filament never really bonds, and just drags and ‘bunches up’ after the left nozzle prints.
I’ve tried 3 different PLA (black, white, blue) filaments from Snapmaker.
I have some supposedly better brand filament arriving this week.
I do clean with isopropol each time as well.
I also have the filment ‘creep’ issue on both nozzles.
I’m pulling my hair out…that’s why I was hoping someone would help especially with e-steps on the dual extruder.
My single extruder worked perfectly.
Did you adjust the live z offset? Try lowering down to about - 0.3mm.
It has to be normal pla (not the breakaway which was delivered with the dual print head because this has to be printed at about 220°C)
What I first am attempting is the directions from Snapmaker verbatim.
I was just hoping to update the e-steps first.
Where do you adjust the live z offset?
Thank you.
While printing swipe from right to left on the Touchscreen. You can adjust some Parameters there. With them you can lower Z step by step until the layer hits the perfect Level.
Use a bigger skirt on your first prints. Then you have the time to fine tune.
I adjusted the left nozzle by 0.30 and that did the trick; however no matter what I do the right nozzle does not adhere. I even tried adjusting the e-steps.
I adjusted the temp from 200 to 205, I used the ‘purple’ glue stick, slowed down flow, speed, nothing made a difference for the right nozzle. Same as my first dual extruder.
Very frustrating! I know you have to adjust settings, but it shouldn’t be this difficult.
I’m using brand new Hatchbox PLA (Black and White).
There are individual Z-Offsets for left and right, you need to fine-tune both. This is a long-known problem which Snapmaker does not seem to fix: DX Z-Auto off by 0.3-0.4mm: Reason found, no Solution? and DX + Bracing Kit: Flex and Z-Offset-Problem
Thanks, I will try this tommorow as I’m too frustrated today.
Thanks for all the advice.
I got it working perfectly by following these steps in this order. (Updated 11/30/2024)
Place 12"x12" piece of blue painters tape (from 12"x60yd roll) on bed, for great adhesion; make sure you push out bubbles, not with your greasy hands! I also enable the fan in the enclousure as well as the external filter fan.
Manual Sensor calibration until card won’t slide through, then lowering both nozzles by 0.5; then save.
Manual Z calibration until card won’t slide through, then lower both nozzles by 0.5; then save
Full auto bed leveling; then save
Once I completed these I ran the x/y calibration print, and entered what looked ‘centered’, and then the save. I ran the model check print, and then save settings.
Perfection!
Why support doesn’t have some of these steps is beyond me.
They should also allow you to rearrange the menu items on the display.
That sort of jiggery-pokery really shouldn’t have to be necessary to get something to work as it should.
Totally agree!
I get you have to tweak things on 3d printers, but it shouldn’t be black magic, especially on known issues. If you search the forum there are hundreds of different threads on this issue.
Yeah, i thought it is snapmaker 2.0 related,.but I had same problem on my artisan. Had to manually lower right nozzle -0.3
Exactly like on my 2.0. dont get why they just not fix that… this problem is as old as the dual Extruder itself. 
Really? I’s the same on Artisan??? That renders my theory of the SM2’s bad rigidity being the culprit obsolete…
@Jade Can your engineers look into that? It seems to be a firmware error - perhaps some calculation done wrong?
Yeah, it is the same for me…
But i had some problems with the dual Extruder on Artisan. I would Not able to Finish the calibration because I was Not able to save the Y Offset. I got a Loop there. While In was in debugging with support, i destroyed the probe sensor…
So at the Moment I can just bypass the boot and calibration process with connection luban in between and with this I am able to come into the main menu. So maybe there is some magic in between to determine the perfect z-level for right extruder. But i don’t think so.
To print the xy calibration in a proper way, i have to lower z offset manually too.
And this is btw very frustrating for new users.
They maybe buy the Artisan Premium, try to print first time and this fail again and again and just because the right extruder prints to high and you cannot use the calibration.
But in luban I have to chose in Artisan If I use a dual Extruder or a “2.0 dual Extruder”.
I do not know that there are two kinds of the dual head, but maybe the “Artisan only” dual head works better? I just bought the snapmaker 2.0 “Upgrade Kit” where there is no 10W Laser or dual head as I already Had both… so maybe this is the problem?
The difference of 2.0 and Artisan dual extruder is the mounting bracket of the Artisan (from my point of view).
But why should luban be interested in the mounting?
Chosing Artisan and dual Extruder should be clear enough?
This is the listing explanation on luban:
.