Wäre möglich, allerdings passiert das echt schnell, denn sobald das Stützmaterial gedruckt wird, flippt der Extruder aus.
Wo bist Du her? Ich wohne in Nienburg Weser
Would be possible, but that happens really quickly because as soon as the support material is printed, the extruder freaks out.
Bei Darmstadt 
Beim Durchsatz des J1 ist “echt schnell” sehr relativ. Wenn ich bei meinem Drucker den Lüfter auf Vollgas laufen lasse und z.B. eine Brücke drucke, kann das innerhalb von ca. 1…2min passieren. Beim J1 wären das dann vermutlich 15…30s.
With the throughput of the J1, “really quickly” is relative. If I let the fan run at full throttle on my printer and print e.g a bridge, this can happen within approx. 1…2min. With the J1 that would probably be 15…30s.
I did my mods - did not have steel washers but used nylon washers (2 *0.9mm thick) Put all back together and it works. I did notice that sometime it would slip and therefore I upped the temp by another 5 deg. When I did the problem seemed to disappear. Time will tell if this has fixed the whole issue for me.
Hello dear community,
I made another sweeping move today and reworked the extruders.
It’s possible that I’m overdoing it, but I wanted to do the nozzles anyway, so I did it completely right away.
Updated to 2.3.5, which I should have left out.
I’ll undo tomorrow…
German:
Hallo liebe Gemeinde,
ich habe heute noch einmal Rundumschlag gemacht und die Extruder überarbeitet.
Möglich das ich es übertreibe, aber die Düsen wollte ich eh machen, dann habe ich es gleich komplett gemacht.
Update auf 2.3.5 gemacht, was ich besser hätte lassen sollen.
Mache ich morgen wieder rückgängig…
i have the same problem with the snapmaker artisan! I’ve already disassembled and cleaned the whole nozzle and then it works for 2 hours and then the error comes back. the filament gears are under-tensioned. this plastic construction is flawed. with 2.0 it was solved better.
German:
Hallo zusammen,
heute, nach langer Inaktivität des Forums, können wir endlich wieder etwas posten.
Ich habe ja bereits gezeigt und beschrieben, was ich gemacht habe, um die Extruder-Sprünge loszuwerden.
Jetzt hatte ich ja etwas Zeit, die ganze Sache noch mal zu beobachten, wie sich das ganze jetzt verhält.
Dabei habe ich PETG mit TPU im kombinierten Modus gedruckt.
Als Slicer habe ich Cura genommen, da man dort ja die Materialien der Teilegruppe zuordnen kann.
Hier ist mir Folgendes aufgefallen.
Mit den Standardeinstellungen bei Cura, “Anfängliche Drucktemperatur” und “Endgültige Drucktemperatur” ist es unmöglich vernünftig zu drucken.
Die Extruder-Sprünge passieren immer dann, wenn der Druckkopf wechselt.
Die Temperaturen müssen unbedingt alle gleich eingestellt seit, zumindest keine Temperatur unterhalb der eigentlichen Drucktemperatur!
Ich, in meinem Fall habe seit dem ich darauf achte, keinerlei Probleme mehr beim Drucken.
Wenn der Druck deutlich schneller läuft, also zum Beispiel bei Stützmaterial anfängt zu stopfen, sollten wir darauf achten, die Druckgeschwindigkeit anzupassen.
Ich habe dabei festgestellt, dass es deutliche Unterschiede zwischen gibt, PETG kann man nicht unbedingt mit 250 mm/s laufen lassen, da müssen wir uns scheinbar einarbeiten.
Also kommen wir um ein Testdruck, mit dem jeweiligen Filament nicht herum.
Von TPU mal ganz abgesehen, was man sowieso nicht schnell drucken kann.
Was jetzt das Upgrade betrifft, was ich am Extruder gemacht habe, kann ich nicht sagen, ob das wirklich besser ist, denn es kann durchaus sein, dass es nicht nötig gewesen wäre.
Das, was nötig ist, ist auf alle Fälle, die Feder muss unbedingt angepasst werden.
Ich habe mir von BondTech die Rändelschraube gekauft, dort die Feder genommen, passt perfekt und jetzt werden wir sehen, wie gut das läuft.
Mehr kann ich jetzt erst mal nicht dazu beitragen, ich hoffe das es hilfreich für euch ist.
Für mich persönlich, bin ich erst mal zufrieden, sollte ich noch etwas ändern oder herausfinden, werde ich es natürlich mit euch teilen.
English:
Hello everyone,
Today, after a long period of inactivity on the forum, we can finally post something again.
I have already shown and described what I did to get rid of the extruder jumps.
Now I had some time to watch the whole thing again, how the whole thing behaves now.
I printed PETG with TPU in combined mode.
I used Cura as a slicer because you can assign the materials to the parts group there.
Here’s what I noticed here.
It’s impossible to print properly with Cura’s default settings, “Initial print temperature” and “Final print temperature”.
The extruder jumps always happen when the print head changes.
The temperatures must all be set the same, at least no temperature below the actual printing temperature!
In my case, since I’ve been paying attention, I haven’t had any more problems with printing.
If the print runs significantly faster, for example when support material begins to clog, we should make sure to adjust the print speed.
I noticed that there are clear differences between PETG, you can’t necessarily run it at 250 mm/s, so we seem to have to get used to it.
So we can’t avoid a test print with the respective filament.
Quite apart from TPU, which you can’t print quickly anyway.
As for the upgrade I made to the extruder, I can’t say if that’s really better because it may well not have been necessary.
What is necessary is in any case, the spring must necessarily be adjusted.
I bought the knurled screw from BondTech, took the spring there, it fits perfectly and now we’ll see how well it works.
I can’t contribute more for now, I hope it’s helpful for you.
For me personally, I’m satisfied for now, if I change or find out anything else, I’ll of course share it with you.
I also put in two toothed discs to press the spring. Result shows it may cause more clogging.
Taken out the toothed discs, clogging disappeared. I think if push extrude gear too hard may produce greater drag force.
What are your new black extruder drive gears? Come from BMG extruder?
If I am not mistaken, i3sven used some other gears, but I compared the ones from Snapmaker with my Bondtech BMG gears, and they can be exchanged easily. Furthermore, the ones from Bondtech are significantly sharper, so I ordered two sets of these for my J1.
Thanks for the info, because I don’t have any BMG gear for comparing right now.
It would be great if they could be switched out, and BMG gear seems to sell one made of hardened steel.
Exactly, that is why I ordered their drivergear kit - I know their quality
It is the 1.75/5mm variant of the drive gears that fits. The biggest issue is to remove the small retaining ring from the shaft that holds the gear in the flip-out clip. In case you loose that one: it is a standard DIN 471 retaining ring, so you can easily buy them separately.
Oh, I got it. 
But why not use the original retaining ring instead of buying a new one.
Well, mine flew off never to be found again 
, so I was glad to have a fitting replacement.
I tried adding more thermal paste to my heat breaks with minimal success. I tried BondTech copper/hardened steel nozzles but switched back to the originals after breaking one by over torquing it. According to the folks at MatterHackers you’re supposed to heat the hot end to 280 and torque them to between .5 and 1.0 nm. I couldn’t get them to stay tight. Finally I decreased my retraction speed to 20 mm/s and 1.5 mm retraction distance and I’m not ready just yet to call it cured but I’ve printed some things in the last few days that would have caused the heat creep clogging previously. I’m printing PLA at (generally) 235 for most all filaments. I’ve used just plain old PLA, off brand silk, Quantum dichromatic, Matterhackers Pro, Rhino, you name it and it’s all printing fine. I noted that the Snapmaker filament printed well at 200 but other PLA likes more heat. I’ve pretty much given up on the PEI side of the bed because of adhesion issues (corners lifting mostly) and print with glue stick on the glass side with great results.
I haven’t changed much else in Cura except the default print temperatures and I’ve not had a skip or a clog in days (knock on wood) so you might give it a try. I’ve adapted and printed up some universal filament rollers/holders to fit inside, swapped out the guide tubing for Capricorn reverse Bowden tubing and eliminated the sharp bend right at the extruder. I added some 5V LED light bars on the inside corners next to the door hinges and a switch to use either the existing LED lighting or the new LED bars or turn both off. It’s now printing merrily away as it should. It’d be nice if we could get it to play nice in the sandbox with Octoprint and get a Simplify 3D profile but I’ll settle for just printing without problems for now. Good luck and happy printing.
I’m interested in the J1 and saw this discussion over the clicking noise here.
I’m printing since 6 years and own a Voron for 2 years now.
The click noises you can hear is the extruder motor skipping steps.
If the tension would be insufficient the filament in the extruder gear would slip and there would no click noise but you would have under extrusion in your print.
I suggest to use nickel plated nozzles or better, cht style nozzles.
Second you can decrease the necessary extruder force by increasing the hotend temp or reducing print speed.
And to prevent clogs try and place a fan in front of the printer with open doors and if possible with open top cover to prevent heat creep in the hotend. Also don’t print very slow for too long, like under 15mm/s. The heat could soften the filament over time when it’s extruded to slowly.
Have to wait till April for my J1 till I can test it but maybe this will help some people.
Slipping can also cause such clicks - replacing the (relatively blunt) gears with Bondtechs does help with that. But the basic problem as far as I tell tell for now is indeed something about clogging, therefore your advice should be helpful. But I want to avoid that fan 
The Bambu is a walk in the park compared to the J1–I have 3 and they just run–, the J1 has some serious issues with the extruder.
German:
Hallo zusammen, hier mal ein schriftliches Update zum Extruder Problem:
Ich bin gerade im Versuchsstadium, aber ich kann bereits mit 200 mm/s drucken, ohne dass es Extruder Sprünge gibt.
Dafür ist leider eine Anpassung der Heatbreak notwendig, Plus Düse, bzw. Austausch, (optional auch der Heizblock), aber es wird sich lohnen.
Genauere Informationen werde ich bereitstellen, sobald ich alle Tests durchgeführt habe.
Bis dahin,
English:
Hello everyone, here is a written update on the extruder problem:
I am currently in the experimental stage, but I can already print at 200 mm/s without any extruder jumps.
Unfortunately, an adjustment of the heatbreak is necessary for this, plus nozzle, or exchange, (optionally also the heating block), but it will be worth it.
I’ll provide more specific information once I’ve run all the tests.
Until then,
Here’s a short video:
Yes, the three germans (i3sven, MrBean and me) did a little… how did someone call it here… “german engineering” together, and i3sven was the first to test it. It looks very promising so far!
Are you aware of the German Ducktips3D Forum? There is an increasing number of J1 owners over there that would be eager to learn as well what you invented! 
