Tips for avoiding nozzle clogging?

Hi All,
I have searched the forum for help on this but did not see much advice. I am seeing repeated clogging during prints. All my printing has been with Snapmaker-supplied PLA so far. I used one reel of black with no clogging issues. I have started a reel of white and printed a temperature tower successfully. I started a bigger print (about 40 hours I think) and the nozzle clogged about halfway through. I cleared the clog with a thin piece of wire (one tip I found in these forums) and printed a calibration cube and a small mechanical part succesfully. Those successful prints represented about 4 hours of work I think. I started another long print and the nozzle clogged again after about 8 hours. Again I could clear it with a piece of wire and I can easily push filament through by hand when the nozzle is above about 190°.

Questions:
1: The hob gear that drives the filament has a bit of PLA debris in it after grinding on stuck filament. Should I be trying to clean that out somehow?

2: Is there anything different about the white PLA compared to the black that would be causing clogging? On the temperature tower I printed I didn’t see much variation in quality between the rungs.

I’m printing at Normal quality with zhop and retraction, a skirt, extra extrusion and slower motion on the first layer. I have tried printing at 200-215° so far with the white PLA.

The PLA reel goes into a dry bag between prints to avoid humidity buildup, and it is not in a dusty area. The packaging for the reel was first opened about 4 days ago.

Any tips will be appreciated!

Hey, your retraction distance is most important.

I would suggest you to 1mm retraction distance.

I would also change the hotend, I had a clogged nozzle too, because of a piece of broken ptfe tube inside the hotend.

Thank you @xchrisd - this is really interesting. I will try retraction distance of 1mm as you said (was 5mm before). I was resisting the step of changing the nozzle as it has so few hours of use on it, but I see your point that there could be another reason to change it.

Thanks again!

Quick update - I started a new print with 1mm retraction distance, and everything went well at first. After about 1 hour the nozzle caused the print to detach from the bed and started dragging it round. I assume my bed is not flat enough to support 1mm retraction distance. I am starting a new print with 1.5mm retract.

Retractuib distance is not your problem
Check if Z-hope is activated

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Hi @Isaac11, thank you for jumping in. I do have zhop activated. “Zhop when retracted” is checked “on” and the distance is set to 1mm.

Thanks again!

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Hi, do you have a photo of the problem? Does the filament clogged inside the module or just around the nozzle?

Hi @Potter, the filament clogged inside the nozzle. I took an overall photo that included the nozzle after one of the fails and you can see the nozzle area in the attached image.

. There was a bit of PLA on the outside of the nozzle but the bottom of the nozzle was clear.

The latest print ran overnight and finished successfully. I think it helped to reduce the retraction distance (the original setting of 5mm must be excessive for PLA) and I have a better understanding of retraction distance vs Z Hop now. Thanks again to all (including @xchrisd and @Isaac11) for lending your expertise.

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This happened to me too. Never had a clog with the SM black PLA, but I did with the white PLA. Using mostly default Fast settings when this happened to me.

Have you tried the tips mentioned above? And could the tips help in your case?

No at the time, I needed to continue printing and simply replaced the nozzle and kept going.

Of course I was in the middle of a large print and when I went and checked on it this morning, it was clogged again! I will try some of the tips for the next print


Edit: so I am unclear from the discussion above, Z-hop should or should NOT be activated? My settings were default (5 mm retract, Z-hop off). I am setting retract to 1 mm and enabling Z-hop. Tell me if this is wrong!

Less retraction is better for the print quality till the point where it is too less.
I would suggest you, just to enable z-hop when it is necessary (different models on the build plate and far travel paths, if there could collidate something).

I never had clogging problems with my retraction settings, except of my broken tube in the hotend.

I think you should do some research where the clog comes from, here are some examples:

  • just filament got stuck in the nozzle, classic (maybe because of too far retraction)
  • temperature did not reach on the nozzle
  • print-temperature too low
  • grinding the filament with the extruder gear- so no clog- this is filament grind (too fast print, too many pressure, too cold,
)
  • clog because of dirt (is your filament old, dirty and or dusty, is your environment clean)

Hope this helps!

I am executing a 12 hour print with 1 mm retraction and 1 mm z-hop right now. It didn’t seem to add much time to it (z-hop that is). So far it has not failed. I don’t really see any of the factors you mentioned being the issue.

When my job first started failing, I noticed it was “printing in the air” with nothing coming out. I manually pushed the filament by hand from the top until the gear engaged again and it was extruding. So it was gear grind, but I think as soon as it stops, that is going to happen. Filament was extruding at this point, but I could see it was too far above the print to complete successfully, so I aborted the print. Then with the filament head up in the air and nozzle temp set to 205, I opened the hatch to disable the gear drive and manually pushed the filament again. I got a little squeeze out, but not full volume, then it completely clogged and nothing would come out with the pressure I was able to apply manually.

This was when I swapped out the nozzle. The new nozzle worked fine until it also cut out in the middle of a print which led me to where I am now with reduced retraction and z-hop enabled. I don’t think these jobs are particularly challenging but they are very large area (8-1/2 x 12 inches), though not very thick (1/8 to 3/8 inches max), see image. I am having a little trouble with leveling. The A350 bed doesn’t seem very flat and even with a larger calibration grid, I still feel it isn’t fully compensating for the unevenness. I am thinking of “going glass”!

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Just an FYI followup - that print and another just like it completed without further clogging. Not sufficient proof that 1 mm retraction plus z-hop is the cure all, but it seems to have worked for me.

Now I plan to print these in ABS. I need my enclosure!

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