Yes, I know the forum, but I am only a reader there
Please give us time to doublecheck our findings and discuss them with Snapmaker in case they are interested. There are obviously some people who do not care too much about their good manners when it comes to this topic, therefore we take it slowly for now. I for example will need to wait about two weeks from now on until I get what I need first, and we are not in any way affiliated to Snapmaker but have our jobs and do this as a hobby in our spare time.
Have patience
I used two very small screwdrivers that easily fit into the place between tooth wheel and housing to press on the two ends of the open side simultaneously and managed to push it out after some attempts.
Ofcourse it’s not necessary many times, but it’s fun to fine tune the machine with great parts . Regarding PID tune of the hot end after change. Is it possible to do the PID calibration on the J1?
Try this, you’ve got nothing to lose. I put a 6" fan above the printer blowing straight down. I don’t know how many CFM its pushing but its a pretty good breeze. Clogs and under-extrusion have disappeared. I was worried it would cool too much but temps have held steady at 60 and 225. I’ve always suspected heat creep was the issue and this seems to confirm that. I printed a 6 hour piece that failed twice before and it’s perfect, not a single click. The last time I tried to print it before the fan I got a clog on layer 2… Like I said, you’ve nothing to lose, give it a try. It worked for me when literally nothing else has.
May the problem is Cura. I try a print the fist time in Cura with all settings that I use in Luban. Print temp all 210 etc and he make problems and the extruder runs funny ways on his work. I check it and do the same in Luban and it runs way smoother. May the print way logics are difficult or some other thing on software?
The Luban run smooth but I miss there so much options
Sure, but I think that might not be of much help if I give you the link to the german dealer where I bought them. A search for “bondtech drivegear kit” should show you some dealers near you where you can get it
When it comes to Cura: you are right in that respect that Cura is an unbelievable mess when it comes to the settings, and Snapmaker has indeed some flaws in the configuration they offer which seems to cause e.g. some retraction settings they stated in one place to be either ignored or overwritten overwritten by wrong defaults elsewhere, ar least as far as I understand it by now.
But the main issue is within the print head of the J1.
I can be lucky that i dont have the Head issues. But its frustrated to the users that had this problems. A Statement or a how to fix from Snapmaker will be helpfull. i think may the know it, the last Printers dont have it i mean. Mine was here Feb 21 and he had nothing with the heads.
May be some Differences at the Mounting process in Factory
I use all parts except the axis - that one does not have the slot for the shaft retaining ring, so you need to use the original one. Don’t forget to add a little grease to the rollers when you reassemble everything.
I had this problem too. So I printed a filament oiler from thingiverse and put some rapeseed oil in it. The other thing I did was lower the retraction distance to 3 or 4 mm.
I have not had any extruderskips since but have only printed PLA @ 200 degrees so far. Hopefully the problem willl not return at higher temps.
Just for the record…when vegie oil get hot it degrades and then goes sticky. I have to wonder who dreamed up the oil aspect for printing as the aftermath of sticky oil will make you tear your hair out…it gets in everywhere and is impossible to remove once it goes sticky…everything sticks to it especially airborne fluff from your clothing. I think that if you get oil in the PTFE tube, which is designed with an internal coating specifically to allow free passage of the filament, and more seriously on the extruder drive mechanism rollers, once the oil deteriorates you just have to replace the tubing totally. If you must have oil at all costs, then I would suggest a hydraulic oil as is used in automatic gear boxes… (I can’t say if the hydro oil will attack the filament etc)…designed to operate at high temperatures without going sticky. This is something I will NEVER EVER use despite some saying they get better results with oil etc.
I work in a company that is specializing in plastic additives; it is normal practice to add fatty acids(which is present in vegetable oil) .
By adding small amounts of fatty acids, plastics typically becomes more waxy and slippery. while that does not strengthen plastics, my speculation is that since the nozzles are bad at kneading plastics, the addition of fatty acids makes the melt slightly less viscous(easier to knead) and thus create a more uniform extrusion melt.
While i havent tested PLA due to small worldwide demand(compared to PVC PP and PE) and unknown additives present in the filament, i cannot say for certain what is happening. The world of plastics is actually much more complex than what most would believe.
The idea behind that is to add a coating of polymerised oil to the inside of of the heatbreak, just as you do if you burn in a steel frying pan, in order to lower the high friction coefficient of (especially) titanium heatbreaks.
This does actually work for a degree - but I do not know if such a coating will survive higher printing temperatures or if there will be a negative effect on the strength of the printed part.
