Calibrating the A350

Hello All,

I hope everyone is having a wonderful day :slight_smile:

I will be putting the A350 together tomorrow (very excited!) and figured it couldn’t hurt to prep some calibration materials.

After fooling around on https://teachingtechyt.github.io/ for a while, I found that the default settings in Luban aren’t comparable to some of the unchangeable settings in the temperature tower Gcode creator. I realized I might be able to save a significant amount of time seeing if anyone on here had default settings calibration gcode/prints I could download.

I’d also greatly appreciate your thoughts on which calibration steps you think I should start with and if a XYZ 20mm cube is the best starting point.

Thank you for all your help!

Start here:

Cube and benchy are both good first things to print.
-S

I read through both of those before posting initially but each left me with a lot of questions. Most of the questions I have been able to figure out but I thought some people might just have some gcode for the a350 for things like the temperature tower.
If I’m tuning settings in Luban, they won’t match the unchangeable settings under “Feedrate” on teachingtechyt.github.io

Should I just use something other than Luban?

Teaching Tech presliced everything in Simplify3D. Since it sounds like you have a desire to make everything match then you either need to a) use Simplify3D after calibration or b) slice the calibration models yourself in Luban.

However, if you just try it instead of fussing over these minute details I think you’ll find it doesn’t matter at all.

In 3D printing there’s at least 100 different knobs that can be turned to effect a change on the print, at some point you just have to stop worrying about perfecting every knob. The difference a solid infill slowdown percent of 80% vs 70% or 90% just doesn’t matter.

Gotcha.

So you’re saying I should just input all the settings I can change to match and try get glean info from the print(s) even though it won’t match perfectly?

It seems like people prefer using Cura over Luban. Should I just not use Luban unless needed?

Yep, and I think you’ll find you get good results. Really, the main things people need to change are calibrating e-steps, and flow rate. Everything else after that is really getting into the weeds.

Luban uses Cura under the hood with a custom profile. If you want to switch to Cura it’ll give you control over every setting instead of being limited to the interface in Luba. It’s a small learning curve but worth it.

You can start here:

The settings are no longer required for Cura, as the latest version of Cura has Snapmaker 2.0 in the database. You just have to choose your printer. The supplied profiles are well suited for getting started.

Thanks!

After installing Cura, using the default settings it gives for the A350 (pic of those settings attached), and printing a few cubes, boats, and temp towers, there are three problems I’m having despite messing with settings (relevant pics attached).

  1. It drags over the prints and leaves a mark on the top

  2. Some prints have some noticeable stringing

  3. Every once in a while a layer will have a blob or be a tiny bit off in one or two spots.

The settings I have fiddled with along with their current values:

  1. Acceleration: 750mm/s^2

  2. Temperature: 190C

  3. Retraction: 5mm, 60mm/s, minimum 0.8mm

  4. Z-hop: “When Retracted” checked, 0.5mm

  5. Rafting: I use a raft for all prints

  6. Combing Mode: On

I’d greatly appreciate your ideas on fixing things up!


Screenshot 2021-11-10 132212
Screenshot 2021-11-10 132226

That honestly looks pretty good. Not perfect, but better than many printers.

  1. Could be overextrusion, could be something else, could just be normal. Use more Z hop so it doesn’t drag?

  2. To some degree stringing is inevitable. That’s very minor, just clean it off with your finger. Best bet for eliminating stringing is to use the best quality filament you can get your hands on. The temp you have listed seems low - usually temp affects stringing but that’s already very low so don’t go any lower.

  3. Small blobs or holes are somewhat inevitable, and can be explained through filament, slicer decisions, and other factors. If this is a model or something just know that printing is the first step, followed by sanding, filling gaps with a filler material, and then painting. It’s not expected things are 100% perfect when they come off the printer.

Keep playing around with things, and manage your expectations.

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