Well, I’ve used my snapmaker 2.0 A350 enough to think I understand it a little and, don’t get me wrong, I like my A350, but . . .
- Make sure that you calibrate steps per unit for the extruder and the X, Y and Z axes, my extruder was way off (I understand that many are) and the axes may need a little adjustment. https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html is a good reference for setting-up a 3D-Printer
- I want a way to start Luban snapmaker in workspace mode—I’ve not used it for anything else in a while—I use Fusion 360, Cura and Lightburn. Both are much more flexible and can set all the various parameters, but I like to talk to snapmaker for G-code specials like offsetting the Z-Axis, adjusting the steps-per-unit for all axes. Yes, I realize that Cura can (allegedly) do this, but I have been unsuccessful using Cura for that purpose.
- I wish there were a way to send things from Luban snapmaker, like the M503 results, to a file or the clipboard. By the way, I consider the current version of Luban snapmaker poor, and like the previous one better.
- I am working on an Excel spreadsheet that will automatically extract the last calibration data from the log file(s).
- I want a way to set Z-offset that’s easier than pasting G1029 D into Workspace.
- I’m designing a shadow-boxed tool box out of 3mm ply and some of the foam the A350 came in, to fit between the A350 and the front of the enclosure, it’ll hold most of the tools & stuff. It will have a flip-down cover (with legend on the underside) that will automatically close if (no, when) the bed moves over & hits it. Right now, it will have places for:
a. The Metabo, (and the Powerhobby bits & short Bondhus bits)
b. The Malco handle
c. A 6.35mm (1/4”) hand ratchet
d. The wrench(s), the sockets, and an adapter for the Metabo to drive the sockets.
e. A couple of regular ball-end hex keys, 2, 2.5 and 3 mm
f. Several CNC bits
g. The CNC hold-downs
h. The CNC wrenches
i. The pallet knife
j. The rotary handles
k. A couple of nozzle clean-out pins - I’m also designing a cover for between the base and the edge of the enclosure, so that things won’t fall and hide under the base.
Things that I’ve done: - The little hand tool that came with it is nice, but I couldn’t find any power drivers for those 5mm drive bits, and a magnetic holder is not (IMHO) good enough, as the hex comes out much too easily while in use and they’re not ball-ended, so it’s just not good enough for me, I will probably still use it on occasion, but:
a. I much prefer-ball-ends, so I bought some, from eBay, $19.95US, Powerhobby RC Ball End Hex Driver Tip 1/4" (6.35mm) Power Tool Set Metric 2.0, 2.5, 3.0mm. Get more than one set, it’s easy for the driver to jump out of your hand—at least for me as I don’t want to grip it that hard—and when it does, it generates an incredible amount of torque and they’re small, so they can’t handle it.
b. Some short ball-end (Bondhus) bits.
c. And I bought an electric driver with a clutch, model db3dl2 (I’ve seen them with various labels, mine is a Metabo) from Amazon, $62.79US, 6.35mm (1/4”) hex dive. It has 21 clutch settings—they aren’t actual torque settings, just numbered from 1-21, but they are approximately 0.3 - 2.9Nm (3 - 26in.-lbs.) and it’s better than just guessing. You really need this if you change the heads & beds much.
d. A hand-held handle for all these bits is also a good idea (if you get one that grips them properly and not just a magnet), I got a Malco Connext2 Quick Change Stubby from Amazon, $10.99US, this, with a Powerhobby bit in it, is a total of 152mm (6”) long, with a short (Bondhus) bit, 97.5mm (3.83”) long. - I got a plastic box of small boxes for the screws, extra nozzles, extra collets & spindle nuts, the laser rubbers and other small stuff; it’s got 20 little 30mm boxes, $10.99US from Amazon. For now, it sits nicely on the right side, under the bed.
- Which way is + & - and where am I? So, I bought from Amazon, $12.99US, some Self-Adhesive Measuring Tape, in metric and imperial and put them on all axes`—carefully clean the surface or they won’t stick well and I also cut them in two so that they fit nicely on either side of the stainless-steel cover bands.
- A 6, 7, and an 8mm wrench for the nozzle(s), I got closed end wrenches and a socket of each.
- There aren’t any labels on some of the cables (understandable, as the linear modules can be used in any axis) so I stuck some labels on the cables and the two-to-one converters. I like things being clearly labeled, comes from doing maintenance on aerospace industry machines for 50+ years.
- Lubrication for the enclosure door sliders—mine stumbled a lot before I dry-lubed them.
- Several people have made knobs for the hinge section of the enclosure doors and, I’m using 3M Command large hooks because they are easily removed—I can use them as hooks, too.
- The handle-end sections of the enclosure doors flop around when open, I’ve installed some magnets on them and the middle one, at the top corner.
- I’ve designed a wooden UV-blocking carrier box for filament reels, just for one reel and to be set on the top of the enclosure. With a feed-hole to be centered at the front of the enclose, centered on the print head, so there is space for the slack when the head is at the top of the “Z” axis.
- I’ve made some cable guides and clamps; the guides are not like the chain cable guides; they are much smaller and look (IMHO) nicer and don’t require cutting and splicing the cables—which I don’t like doing; even the best splice is potential failure point. I’ll eventually publish them on Thingverse, when I think that they are good enough:
a. Guides & clamps for the head and X-axis cables
b. Two clamps to hold the Y & Z-axes` cables on the Z-axis linear.
c. A guide for the heater cable that permits removing the heater plate easily.
d. A clamp for the enclosure converter cable, at the top of the Z-Axis tower. - I’ve also made some cable covers that fit in the extrusions, I’ll eventually publish these on Thingverse, too:
a. All the cables on the enclosure converter (except the one from the Expansion Port on the Controller block, it’s too short, although I did put a guide/clamp at the top of the Z-axis to hold it out of the way).
b. Two more to hold the power and USB cables in place on the bottom/side enclosure extrusion, to keep the cables out of the way of the USB thumb-drive port.
c. Three (two for the long horizontal and one for the vertical) for the door Hall-Effect cables. - Did you know that the cable for the E-Stop switch will fit in the extrusion slot? Very, very tightly and you have to be careful putting it in, but it keeps it out of the way and looks better. I did cut a small notch at the top corner of the back panel for the cable to egress the slot.