I often see that people have problems with bed adhesion, but mostly it’s because the first layer is not sticking to the bed. I have the opposite problem – the first layer is practically glued to the bed. This is my scenario:
I have the A-350 with the Snapmaker enclosure and I’m using Hatchbox PLA filament.
I replaced the “sticker” with a brand new sticker. I had the same bed adhesion issue with the sticker that came with the machine and I was using Snapmaker filament. Someone in this forum suggested that an overly adhered print may be due to a “bad batch” of filament that was sent out with the machine. I no longer think this is the case because the same issue is occurring with the Hatchbox PLA.
I’ve leveled the bed using the maximum amount of auto-level points. I used the calibration card that came with the product, ensuring that the card has tension when pulled out, but not so much that it’s impossible to move.
I’m using the default “Fast Print” setting in Luban. This setting uses 205 C printing temp, heated bed temp 50 C, and initial layer temp of 70 C.
This is a photo of the underside of my print. The area in the upper right quadrant was adhered to the bed as if it was Super Glued:
To remove the print, I used a combination of the palette knife and brute force – obviously this is not good for the print nor is it good for my brand new bed sticker. After I removed the print, I scraped the skirt off of the bed using the palette knife, razor blade and alcohol:
Brent, the print cooled down overnight. I have tried raising the z-height slightly, but then I run into the opposite problem which is that the initial layer doesn’t adhere well.
I’m throwing this out there as a possibility … is the bed material that Snapmaker uses on their stickers the best surface for 3D printing? I could try different methods (eg. painter’s tape and PVA glue) but it seems to me that the surface provided by Snapmaker should do what it’s intended to do.
I’ve noticed that my original bed is not sticking nearly as much as it was when I first got it. Now that I’ve printed dozens of prints, the surface is becoming “seasoned” I suppose? Would it be advised to start with a new Snapmaker bed by using the Elmer’s Purple? I’m having Amazon ship me a boatload today.
Does this point to a larger issue that Snapmaker should address? Either by somehow pre-seasoning a bed, or by providing a PVA type substance with a new machine and/or bed?
I feel that Snapmaker should include information like this in the manual because when you read the materials provided, there’s no hint that you may run into such issues out of the box.
I’m new to this and so I’m trying to wrap my head around a ton of information all at once. Frankly, when one is new to something like 3D printing (which has so many barriers to entry), and something like an immovable print occurs, it puts up even more of a barrier.
I have yet to come close to mastery of PLA, but I hope to experiment with other filament materials soon. It’s funny that you mentioned roughing up the base plate with sandpaper. I had this crazy thought that it just may work, but I wasn’t bold enough to test my theory. So thanks for confirming that my thought process was not completely insane!
If you’re not opposed to answering one more question … what is your 3D modeler of choice? I must preface with the fact that I’m on a Mac, so my options are different than that of a PC user. I use Sketchup to build furniture, workstations and the like, however I don’t believe it has the advanced capabilities that I see in software like Fusion 360 and Rhino which seem more suited to 3D printing. I am leaning toward Rhino because I prefer to purchase my software and not rent it on a monthly basis like with Autodesk. Also, it seems like Rhino’s complex curve capabilities are slightly more advanced and intuitive.
As far as slicers go, I’ve been bouncing back and forth between Luban and Cura. I’ve found that I can get reliable prints from Luban, but it lacks some basic features which I find truly annoying. For example, I do not want to scale a model by percentage, but in Luban it’s my only choice. If I want a model to be 200mm high, I should be able to indicate that and not have to use a formula to get there. Cura seems like a better thought out piece of software, but I’m having some difficulties getting my print settings to produce prints that are equally as good as Luban.
Anyway, I remember reading that 3D printing would someday become as commonplace as the toaster in homes. With a barrier to entry as high as 3D printing has, I don’t see how that’s going to happen? Who knows – maybe in 30 years?
I think we’re at around the level now that 2D printing was at in the 1980s, complete with drivers that sometimes fail for no clear reason and have to be reinstalled, less-than-ideal print quality, consumables that fail to feed correctly on every third print or so without the problem getting detected by the printer, and occasional “lp0 on fire”-equivalent messages.
I’ve been a graphic designer and photographer since 89, and a programmer since the mid 90s while working as a hardware/software developer and trainer for Agfa Gaevert. I got into web development in 1996 and I guess you would call me a Full Stack Developer at this point? Anyway, I worked for large corporations for over 30 years doing design and web dev, then I quit the rat race at the end of 2018. Since then I’ve been a contractor for a large food manufacturer, but I’ve taken up a variety of hobbies including furniture making, knife making and 3D printing. I’m finally receiving my Shaper Origin in the mail today, and I’m looking forward to implementing hand-held CNC into my workflow. So, am I a “Maker” now?
I’ll check out your YouTube channel, and I’ll be sure to send you a link to mine when I finally have more content up there.
Before I followed your advice and bought the inexpensive glue sticks, I purchased Bed Weld from Amazon. It’s $22.95 for a 4oz container. Argg! Anyway, it arrived today and I’ve used it on two prints so far – I must say that it’s performing exceptionally well. My prints are not overly adhered and release from the build plate as I would expect.
The glue sticks should be arriving from Amazon in the coming days. I’ll give some feedback on which performs better – glue sticks or Bed Weld. Assuming Bed Weld performs slightly better, I doubt that it’s worth spending the extra money.
I had the same problem with the first print so I drooped the bed temperature down to 50, I think 70 is just too high. I now just use a glue stick, its a layer of PVA and just works so well, no need to even reapply each time, it seasons the bed and the prints stick well but also come off easily.
I am intrigued, I am new A350 owner I have only done small PLA prints (i.e. couple centimeters square).
And the PLA that came in my A350 box adheres nicely and comes off leaving no residue.
(the A350 was delivered in Dec and constructed last week - incase that matters).
My room is constant 72 deg.
I live in low humidity part of the country.
I use Luban.
It was stories like this thread i saw on Facebook that stopped me from building the machine for 6mo.
Am I not having issues because of the size of the objects?
Has anyone measured the heating beds to see if they are heating to the temp they are supposed to (on my next build i will test with a thermometer?)
Its wild to me that peoples experiences vary so much.
(@ VaughnDTaylor - looking forward to hearing about your experiences with the sticks and other approaches).