Model A350 snapmaker 2
Cannot get a 3d print to run. I am finding it impossible to get the 1st layer to stick. The bed is so uneven (not flat) When printing the skirt some points are too close and some points are so high that the filament isnt making contact with the plate. The bed temperature is uneven, the back is hot the front is cool. Didn’t expect this from a new machine? I have resorted to using adhesive stick glue which is not working either. I have run auto leveling a few times with the max points, still no joy.
Any advise ?
Can you show us a picture of how the bed is mounted? Are you sure it’s not upside down? The nuts should be at the bottom. (just to be sure, it’s a common mistake)
see the picture below. (in this case with my home made cnc wasteboard, don’t mind that)
if that’s ok, maybe add a picture of your first layer results and the output of the “M420V” command when you connect to the device through USB (in the serial console in Luban)
Bed is the correct way, unable to connect via usb (no pc near) Will take a pic when next with machine (later this week).
You’re right, the bed is not very flat - and large objects can be challenging for adhesion -
cura / s3d allows for different heating at different levels, which helps a lot to overcome that. in s3d you can have differences every layer so i will sometimes go so far as to have initial layer print bed 10 degreees hot and nozzle 10 degrees hot, then 3 layers in bump it down 5 degrees and then 3 layers more bump it down annother 5 to where i wanted to print at. adhesion wise it helps, but the bottom can be a little malformed from the heat sometimes.
Sometimes I use magigoo when I can’t get something to stick right, other times i dont need to.
z-offset can help, nudging the nozzle a hair closer may help you, but can also have the unintended side effect of not leaving much at all if it is too close.
Alot of people are putting efforts into replacing the print bed, which is not really mandatory to be able to print but helps improve results, and I am personally looking to get some glass going for the sake of trying it.
On the snapmaker screen you can enable a larger calibration 5 x 5 instead of the stock 3 x 3 which made some difference for me as well
It seems that either people have material sticking too hard and need to bump out or people not sticking at all and need to bump in, but in either case the print sheet does seem to become more receptive to filament after use for awhile.
Other factors - even if the plastic is good brand sealed in vacuum bag, moisture can affect adhesion, sometimes a little bake of your filament will make the difference between a successful or failed print.
Thinking about it the filament might the culprit, dont normally use 1.75, the stuff I have is quite old (been vacum packed tho). I will purchase some new and see if there is any difference, do you have any recommendations for a top quality filament? I have enabled the larger calibration.
Honestly, even the matterhackers stuff i bought had some moisture in it, but it was better out of the box than most (at least their PLA, their nylon was awful)… baking the filament or getting a dehydrator seems to be really effective, to the point i just go ahead and do it before changing rolls.
The next brand I was going to order based on feedback on this forum is Prusament
I have a dehydrator and some Prusament on order, I will also remove the bed frame and machine it level as a bells and whistle exercise. A glass plate arrived yesterday, although not sure or confident on installing it with the auto leveling. If that fails I will dump the 3d print side which is what it was purchased for and just use it for engraving. I already have 3 other printers (2 Zortrax M200 and a Ulitmaker) didnt have any of this messing around with them.
Print the first layer with about 10-15mm/s maximum if you want to get huge 3d prints.
For settings adjustment, you have to make a custom profile in Luban.
I thinks it might well be the filament, I managed to get a raft to print but the parts detached from the raft, I will try some new filament and go from there
I just started having an issue today in printing. Aside from the sticking issue - a Food Dehydrator with temp control is great for this - today my nozzle stopped heating at around 70 degrees, and the controller became unresponsive!
Any ideas?
Emailed support with my backer number moments ago.
John
Maybe if you shut the machine down, remove the hotend, check that the thermistor is inserted into the hole (2 of the 4 wires on the plug), unplug the connector, plug it back in to reseat it then power back up
i did have an instance of that occuring, which was solved by above, so it might help you.
Yea. If there’s not something obviously wrong, export and post the logs from the touchscreen. It will have the reason the machine stopped heating in it. The most recent firmware on github addressed a couple issues with heating, what firmware are you on?
