I’ve been running Auto Leveling before every print. Is it necessary to always run it? I’d like to not add wear and tear for no reason; however, if it’s recommended I have no issues with doing it.
Cancel before sending—next time it will remember your choice. I usually tick it about once every half-month or month.
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Thanks @Simon_Zhi 
It’s unchecked when I start a print, so I’ll keep in mind a rough monthly schedule for it!
This assumes you’re always printing with the same material and environment.
Other times you should get a new mesh:
- Different material with a different bed temperature. The greater the difference in bed temp, the more likely the bed or frame distortion will cause a difference at the 0.1mm scale.
- Change of the print bed sheet to a different one.
- Big changes of environment temperature.
- Relocation of the printer, or after doing mechanical work to it.
Similar to 1, I also check the mesh whenever I print higher temp materials after heat soaking the chamber. Thermal cycling the printer from cold to hot I’ve seen can also cause a little drift in the bed mesh. It’s usually stable for some prints, but going from room temp to 100C and enclosed chamber has an effect.
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Great points @Wombley
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I auto level the next print whenever I remove the PEI sheet and put it back on… So almost all the time. I’m a patient guy and can wait a few extra minutes.
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That’s been my standard and will probably stick to it! If an extra 2 to 3 minutes isn’t enough time to get a print done and off the plate, then I need to plan better 
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I think that’s smart: If it only saves you one reprint, you’ll have made up for a lot of bed probing 
I do wish they would enable adaptive meshing though. I believe it’s part of Klipper by now (no KAMP plugin needed anymore).
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Me too! I feel lots can be optimized with this printer and I’m sure we’ll get there.
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Just seen this post:-
Have set up a seperate profile to give it a try, and so far it seems to work fine regarding probing points.
I’ve only printed one thing at the moment, and it still does initial purge line to front of plate instead of nearer to actual print (I’ll have a peek at the Klipper Code I use for my K1 Max to see if I can find the needed setting to move it), but I’ll give it a go at various size prints over the next few days 
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I did this at one point early in testing, then again when I was trying ASA. It’s actually pretty stable from print to print at low temps.
It did drift slightly more between thermal cycles day to day when doing ASA, but still not enough i technically needed to redo it on any given day. Maybe every couple days, if only running it at high temp.
(But also I don’t trust ASA as far as I can throw it, so I still always measure it anyway, lol)
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I love ASA
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I do to, I like to use ASA over ABS.
I do too, I like using ASA over ABS.
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Years ago I was going to try ABS for outdoor prints. Luckily I learned about ASA and how much easier it is to print!
I’ve given myself an ASA headache once but have heard it can be much easier to do with ABS… I simply choose to stay away from it
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Same, ASA has the smell but its not as bad as ABS IMO… I use an air purifier and stay out of the room until the smell clears. GTG!
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Welcome in @ginjeff
Are you able to print a smaller object first with adaptive bed levelling. Then print a larger object without bed levelling? It seems like the updated bed mesh only includes the probed points and therefor it might not be possible? If this is the case I think it is not worth it for me personally, however if it is possible I would definitely want to give it a go 
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I’d say yes. You can reaffirm this via Klipper’s heightmap. When printing with adaptive bed mesh, it will show this mesh, after finish it will return to default bed mesh.
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