I keep hearing this is available for purchase, but there’s no mention of it in the store.
They are releasing it in batches based on when you ordered the printer to cut back on delivery time. You will get an email with a password link when your number is up…
Hi Edwin,
Thanks for answering my question about the tool bits. I’d now like to buy some dowels to use for the tooling. I can easily find round wood dowels here in the states. What I can’t find are the resin composite materials in a dowel format. Can you share a link where I can purchase these dowel materials? I can’t find them anywhere! I’ve found wax materials but I’d like to use what you are showing in the 4th axis module video. Thanks very much!
Sheldon Yourist
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Might have been asked already but is there a way to install and use the rotary module sideways so the bed does not have to move with the added weight of the module and all the sideways movements are done by the laser/Cnc module?
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@Edwin
ロータリーモジュールについて
AliExpressなどでロータリーモジュールを調べてみましたが、自作CNC用のCNCベルトロータリーモジュールは日本への送料込みで約＄180～＄330です。
成形範囲の狭いロータリーモジュールの価格設定に疑問を感じずにはいられません。
ロータリーモジュールを購入された方には、次にロードマップで開発される高出力レーザーやデュアルノズルモジュールの割引を検討することはできないのでしょうか？
いつも不愉快な内容で申し訳ありません。
Ps. レーザー用ゴーグルの違いについての情報ありがとうございます。
@ITmaze
Thanks for the detailed information.
I understand that the green goggles are enabled when using the enclosure.
In my case, I use it inside the enclosure, so I don’t think it will be a problem.
I will consider it next time I buy maintenance parts.
If you don’t have an enclosure, you may need to be careful.
The backers who supported us in the Kickstart projects, and new next batch of the rotary module will be available in next month.
As for the total price, including the rotary module and the shipping cost, to Japan, I need to consult it with our logistics colleague. I will PM you tomorrow when I come to the office.
When it comes to the high-power laser module’s discount for the users who always support us, I will submit the request for it to our operation team.
While the high-power laser module is still under tests, I am sorry that I cannot offer you the price or the potential discount now.
Best regards.
Japanese version:
日本へのロータリーモジュールと送料を含めた合計金額については、当社の物流担当者と相談する必要があります。明日、オフィスに来たときにPMします。
高出力レーザーモジュールの、日頃お世話になっているユーザーへの割引については、オペレーションチームに要望を出してみます。
高出力レーザーモジュールはまだテスト中なので、申し訳ありませんが、今は価格や割引の可能性を申し上げることができません。
よろしくお願いします。
The newly-designed 3D printing module have a better cooling system and can prevent the breakage of the filament.
there will be a discount for me that i have the old version? thanks
I’ve never had a problem with it binding. My problem has been that it pushes too hard and fast when loading, and then there’s enough room above and below and on the sides of the wheel and gear that it ends up outside the path and starts bunching up. When I use the adapter it keeps it within a direct path and I don’t have problems. Mainly this problem is on loading. It just tries to load a lot faster and push a lot more filament than it can extrude. On stiffer filaments this isn’t a problem - they stay straight by themselves and don’t bunch up. The new design definitely doesn’t look like it does anything about this.
-S
HI I just ordered my A350 and it arrives March 22nd… how do. Order the rotary add on? Also do you recommend any particular engraving and cnc milling bits for use with the A350?
Thanks, Christian Files
Hasn’t been my experience at all. The only problem I’ve had is with TPU is it bunching up inside the head. Haven’t had any problems with filament grinding except for from a nozzle clog when my temp was too low.
The user guide and video clearly show loading with the door closed:
I’ve had no problems doing it this way. Even TPU without the adapter made it’s way to the heat break fine. It’s only when I push load and it tries to feed to fast that it backed up. Even if I did need to get it started with door open it would still do this.
With the adapter in place I can load TPU with the door closed. In fact I actually have to because it’s a lot easier to install the adapter with the head on it’s back.
-S
Thank you for your joining in this topic.
- As for loading the filament, different people may have different methods.
- You can insert the filament manually when the door is open to make sure the filament is in the hot end kit tube. And then, close the door, tap “Load” on the touchscreen when the nozzle is heated up.
- You can keep the door closed and then insert the filament into the inlet, and then tap “Load” on the touchscreen.
All in all, the first method would be more convenient to see the filament is in place.
As for the flexible filament, like TPU. You’d better use the first method. Set a relatively slow working speed and extruding speed to avoid the filament from bunching up inside the printing module.
Have you tried the flexible filament adaptor? it keeps the filament in the correct path.
Theres a thread with multiple variations on it.
@Edwin
I have a question about the emergency stop button.
I am using an enclosure and the emergency stop button is used outside the enclosure.
What I was wondering is the length of the cable for the emergency stop button.
It goes out through the cable hole on the back of the enclosure, but of course it has to be long enough, right?
I found a picture of the emergency button attached to the Z-axis.
Is it only long enough to attach to the Z-axis?
It doesn’t make sense unless it’s at least a meter long…
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The problem is that no matter what you set the work speed, when you’re loading it it feeds too rapidly. There is no choice of speed when pushing the ‘load’ button.
-S
They actually published the quick start guides for the emergency button and the rotary module in the support pages of the website.
SM 2.0 Support
With the emergency stop button there will be two cables, one with 500mm length and one with 2000mm. They also show you how the button is correctly installed on the enclosure.
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@ Andomaster
I see that the Quick Start Guide is now available!
It included what I wanted to know.
Thanks for letting me know.
I’m relieved to know that it comes with a 2m cord!
