This is the exact size as the OEM part. The distance is 2.5mm. Unfortunately my glass is 4mm thick so it won’t be able to sense through it. PANASONIC SUNX GXL-8H INDUCTIVE PROXIMITY SENSOR SWITCH PLC MODULE NEW | eBay
i thought the oem part was a 1mm sensing range.
we use prox sensors at work, and against stainless steel the sensing range meets the spec, but with carbon steel it goes further.
i tested this against the snapmaker sensor and it does work, and a magnet reaches even further.
although i did not measure the distance it was a visual only
hey wait that listing says its a 2 pin sensor
im not sure how that would work
i never understood those two wire sensors outside of a dry contact output like a reed switch or a microswitch.
Its about 1-2/100mmn good enough for me. At the moment I look for a good way to put it because it should be at the same place as the original sensor. I used a normaly microswitch with a small lever and attached it to MINUS and signal on the 3dheads sensor connector on the mainboard. A little screw will go up and push it. After leveling I must manually take away the screw. But I will find a way to pefect it.
Weird, because its a NPN-NO sensor. So it has to be a 3-pin. The part # and picture is a 3-pin as well. I’m going to drop him a note.
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Good catch on that @MooseJuice it was in fact a 2-wire sensor. The entire listing was wrong. part #, description, and picture.
I spoke with Zero at support and have a new sensor on the way. It usually takes about 10 days to get supplies from Snapmaker, so hopefully I’ll be up and running soon. Had just finished my laser/CNC extractor so I’ll probably work on my button box faceplate project for the now.
He let you get a sensor??
He wouldn’t sell one to stefix.
Interesting. Glad you got something accomplished!
It hasn’t shown shipped yet. I did pay for it though. We’ll see. If I get it I will share the order info with stefix.
may i ask what the cost was?
$10 with $15 shipping.
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I got a replacement from snapmaker direct. They sold the part for $10 but they also said I had to replace the fan duct and with shipping it was $25. I got the replacement after a couple weeks and first print it snapped the same way the first one did. Now I wait for another. It would be nice if they sold spare parts on their website.
I wonder if that wind duct is any different than the original one, because upon looking at it, by the time your sensor is aligned it no longer connects to the fan.
i would imagine after all the complaints about the poor cooling, they would slip in a fix for that.
I will be mounting it differently. I haven’t drawn it up yet but my plan is to move the sensor so that it is parallel to, instead of to the rear of, the nozzle. I’ve been taking this time to learn the CNC functions of Fusion360 and Lightburn for lasering. I will be also be taking the bed plate bracket in for machining tomorrow.
Any update on the new sensor. I think my sensor is bad as well and I’m curious if you ever got it up and running.
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He was able to purchase a new one from snapmaker, although it is now about the chinese new year so thats gona be tough to pull off.
The sensor originally thought to work ended up not being compatable and the exact one in the snapmaker appears to be an oem part, so you would have to find a 3 wire 24VDC NPN prox sensor normally open.
better off trying support@snapmaker.com and seeing if u can manage to get someone to reply though, cuz using another sensor would require making something to mount it and what have you.
Sorry I didn’t update. I got the sensor installed it. Machined my carriage. Ran the auto calibration and did a full bed test print that came out perfect.
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I did initiate a support ticket with Snapmaker and Zero sent me a recommendation to try the other side of the pad. Did the same thing just drove all the way into the bed.
Thick8, glad you got yours working! Hopefully, I can get a new sensor for mine.
If you wave metal under the sensor when the 3dp module is at home… does it light up?
It’s always lit up.
then yeah you got an issue.
sounds like the output fused or something
the light should only be on while it detects metal under it. you should definately mention that in your correspondence. and send your order number and address in your next message along with it. its possible they can squeeze you out some parts before they are totally shut down.
it may be the board in the print head or may just be the sensor.
curious if maybe the connector is got a straggly wire on it or something, might be worth getting to the board to reterminate. i dont think that would be the case but who knows.
you can manually calibrate to keep playing while you sort that out though
wondering if it turns off when metal is under it? maybe an incorrect sensor was used accidently. again, thats a long shot.
if you are handy, you can rig a switch with a contact closure between ground and signal to accomplish the goal too.
have you ever accidently plugged a module in backwards? you would know, that module would be screwed and others would act goofy like this. if so it could be a controller issue too. even that seems unlikely, but anythings possible on this thing.
keep us posted please