3dp Continuous run time


Just set my first model going. It say the run time is 44 hours. It’s it ok to leave the machine running this long? Does it need cool down periods or will it take care of itself?



Something that large probably isn’t the best choice for a first print, but since you’ve already started it, I guess we’ll go with it. The machine should be okay 3D-printing continuously for that long by my understanding.

Do watch the first couple of layers, and then check the print periodically to make certain that nothing’s gone wrong. Common failure modes are: initial layer failing because the nozzle isn’t at the right distance from the build plate, filament breaking off (you can recover from that one), filament getting stripped inside the head so that it won’t continue to feed, and the nozzle hitting the print and knocking it over.

Tbh, I didn’t know it would take that long otherwise I probably would have gone with something else.

Is there anyway to speed up future prints?

I think most of the things I’ll end up printing will be on the larger side.

Well, the movement speeds Luban uses by default are conservative, and you may be able to push them up a bit—see various threads like https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/a-350t-print-speed-suggestions/25110 and https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/speed-limits-on-sm2/5120. This may lower print quality.

The “fast” print setting obviously is faster than the others, in part because it uses thicker layers, and therefore doesn’t have to lay down as many of them. Again, there’s a quality/speed tradeoff.

If you’re trying to print something that needs supports in its default position, and you can rotate it to a position where it doesn’t need supports, do so—that reduces the amount of plastic squirted out, so it both speeds things up and wastes less filament. There may be some tradeoffs involving mechanical strength and print direction, though.

You can also buy a nozzle with a larger aperture than the 0.4mm that the Snapmakers ship with, so that you can lay down more plastic faster. You’ll need to use a more advanced slicer like Cura if you take this route, because Luban can’t handle it. All Snapmaker models take MK8 nozzles. (As you may have guessed, there’s another speed/quality tradeoff here.)

Traditional small test prints you can use to help dial settings in include the XYZ calibration cube, the calicat, and the 3D Benchy.

Good luck.

Thanks, I’ll give that a try