Testing out my new 350. So far, I haven’t gotten a print that I can use. Why? Because the prints stick to the bed and I can’t get them off without tearing them up. I have tried calibrating several times. I have tried adjusting the Z offset. I have checked my extruder calibration. I have checked my extrusion multiplier. I have tried to remove the prints when the bed was hot. I have tried removing the print when the bed is cold. I can’t get these prints off.
Are there solutions to this that work? I thought these “bendable” sheets were supposed to make life easier?
Please, any help/suggestions are appreciated.
Number one cause of this is z offset being to low. Print a single layer (brim or skirt) and take a picture and share it here And I will help you the best I can. There are other solutions. Some people like to use gluesticks, hairspray, or painterstape on the bed. All of those will help the print stick and help it release when done.
Following - I had the same happen last night with the SM test vase object. Bent the sheet and went to lift it off and tore the vase off it’s bottom layer. I was like “Wow! That’s some good adhesion, that’s for sure!!!”
I’ll re-do the automatic calibration before next print, and lift Z up a little bit. Might have to start using the painters tape, too. (Which will also help protect the bed surface from superficial scratches, I guess.)
Calibration is a little deciving. Best practice is to calibrate it so there is just the slightest bit of resistance on the calibration card. Then try a print and adjust your offset down by tiny bits until you get proper adhesion. Doing it that way will save you a bunch of time in failed prints and bed scraping.
Thanks Atom, I will do that and get you a picture. However I have adjusted the Z offset to as much as .5mm. Most of the time, the prints do what gamemaker mentioned. I also tried the test vase and my print did the exact same thing. It ripped off the bed leaving the bottom stuck on.
I have the same problem. I’ll try to clean the flexible plate tonight, but it takes a hell of a time. My first test failed and it took me about 2 hrs to clean the bed. My second test looked good, but after about 1 hour the extrusion stopped. This means that I will have to clean both my bed and my extruder orifice.
Yeah, mine did that too with the vase! Got about 20-30% done and then stopped extruding. I chalked it up to “one of those things that happens with 3D printing”.
Check for any physical reason the filament would have stopped going through (binding or getting caught, etc.), but then if you open the controls page on the touchscreen and turn on the nozzle and Load it, that should be fine for cleaning the extruder. As long as filament passes through when the nozzle is hot, I think you’re OK.
And yeah, now I can’t even clean the print bed, as I don’t have any 90% iso alcohol yet, and the drug store is out due to the pandemic. Hope to get some this week and get back to printing…
@Flyspy
that sometimes happens and can be caused by a number of things. one of witch is the z offset being to low. when its set to low then it requires more force to push the filament out (cuz it need to push it out through the small gap between the bed and nozzle). this results in more pressure, and can cause the extruder gear to skip, “chewing” the filament. so hopefully if we can get your Z offset correct you wont have that problem anymore.
@gamemaker
if you dont have iso, try heating the bed up very high (80-100) that should make the filament soft enough where you can peal it off. i have also heard some people say that a magic eraser will do wonders, though i have not tried this myself yet.
if you both want to post pictures of your first layers i will try to help you as well.
Yes, thanks for the help @Atom!
I’ve already peeled most of my first layer of, but it definitely looked like the “too low” picture. I’ll try heading the bed to clean it, adjust my z axis up about .3mm, and try again. I forgot to check for filament bite (your second photo) before I just re-did the Load filament flow, but will try to check that next time if it happens.
How do you get the filament out in that case? I assume you heat the nozzle then open the front and manually pull it out the top? (Since the motor might not get any real grip. I guess you could just heat nozzle and Unload, pulling up on the filament to help it out.)
I find it helpful to print the first job after calibration with a skirt of 4 or 5, this gives you time to tune the Z offset before the model starts to print. Feel the skirt to judge whether you have it right, bear in mind that change in Z will only happen at the next line of gcode, you will notice a slight pause in printing.
@gamemaker
You are correct on how to adjust the z offset midprint. Also your correct to unload the filament, open the extruder door with the hot end heated and pull the filament out.
OK Atom. I attached photos of the raft you requested. One say “stock” which are the calibrated settings with no Z offset. Then I adjusted the Z -.2, them -.4. I have tried all these setting and I get results of either no sticking at all to no extrusion because nozzle is too close.
It sticks too well. So, I tried to run a cube WITH a raft this time. I am attaching a pic. The good news is I could get the part off the bed, but when I went to remove the raft from the part, it ripped the bottom of the cube off. So, it looks like it adheres to the bed too well, and NOT to itself!
@BillR94
You said you did an e step calibration, what is the number you set it to. Also can you show me a pic of the side of the cube? Finally, what temp are you printing at?
