I believe it is around 226. It was originally 212. I measured the 25mm cube after re-calibrating the e-steps and it was 25.2 on the X and 24.98 on the Y. The Z was also 25.2. I am printing at 205 degrees.I set the cube to vase mode and it measured .42 which is exactly what the extrusion width is set to.Layer height is 0.2. Pictures are the same cube at different angles due to light reflection.
You have some pretty heavy banding. But I’m not sure why… what speed are you printing at?
That is about 70mm/s
Try increasing the flow setting by 7
ok… Would that also be the “extrusion multiplier” in S3D?
BTW, thank you for working with me on this. Do you have the same issues with your machine?
in s3d increase the extrusion multiplier by 0.07. And i have had that issue but with my ender3. Also I’m glad to help, this world needs more people helping each other in my opinion 
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I just tried to calibrate my A250 after updating to v1.10.1 and it dug into my bed!!
ok… I will give it a try and let you know.
OK…How do I edit the existing PLA material in Luban?
You only could save it as a custom profile in Luban.
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Update: I increased the extrusion multiplier. Attached is a picture while it is still printing. I was able to remove it from the bed and separate it from the raft with no issues. It seems that I will have to use a raft for every print as that seems to be the only way to get the print off the bed
It seems that I will have to use a raft for every print as that seems to be the only way to get the print off the bed
Have you tried using glue stick?
Makes it super easy to pop stuff off.
Super simple to use. I like the Elmer’s Glue big stick that changes from purple to white when it dries.
Spread it on thin. Lasts for quite a few prints. (You’ll get a feel for when you need to redo.)
Washes off easily with a wet rag. Every so often I’ll wash the whole bed under the sink and then wipe down with rubbing alcohol.
Some people complain it’s a crutch and you shouldn’t need anything if everything’s dialed in, but I just see it as giving a greater margin of error.
I hate using rafts unless it’s really necessary (like a tall skinny piece). Why have something you have to remove or cut off if you don’t have to. I prefer to just use skirts.
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I agree, I don’t care to use rafts as it takes time and uses filament that gets thrown away. I will try the glue stick and also hair spray ans see if I can get the prints off without the raft.
Now that you found the issue, you should try printing without any of it and see if you can remove your print.
@sdj544 is right, there is no harm or shame i using a an aid, but I’m curious if your original issue has improved.
I will give the cube another try tomorrow. I was trying out the CNC this afternoon so I have to convert it back.
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I have set the offset to 0,1 or 0,15 mm. I have destroyed my print sheet, because the print was stuck at the bed…
Yup, I know! Mine works better at ,2
Hi, had the same problem. My solution was in addition to the z-calibration to only a slight resistance in the calibration sheet to also lower the initial bed temperature, especially if the total surface area of the model touching the plate is large. Of course if set too low the initial layer won’t stick at all but I have had a bed temperature of 50 to 60 degrees C being successful rather than the default 70 degrees. And also my experience is that it is easier to remove the model if the plate is let to cool down before trying to remove the model.
My experience is the exact opposite… I had major problems removing prints after bad had cooled. Make sure bed is at full temperature and removing prints is just fine no issues at all.
If I were to grade the measures I would say this:
- Z-calibration (only a slight resistance in calibration paper needed)
- Bed temperature. Try to use as low initial bed temperature as possible as long as the initial two three layers stick.
- Let the print and print bed cool down. My experience is that the adhesion between layers is lower when the printed object is still warm and increases the risk of some upper layers separating from the bottommost layers. Also the cooling down should shrink the print slightly also helping it loose itself from the print bed.
- The palette knife is your friend. If bending the print surface isn’t sufficient, using the palette knife to wedge it between the lowest layer and the print bed is the way to go. But be careful since it is quite easy to accidentally wedge it between say the second and third layer for instance.