When printing calibration stuff and when I finally think I’ve cracked the case… I’m putting a 5 hour job and is not how I would imagine… Don’t get me wrong, not the printing time is the issue… the artefacts are all over the print… But it gives me the impression that it doesn’t like to travel much :))
Not a work horse how the community likes to call some 3d printers :))
Very subtle layer shifting like this
@Marius87bv Well if the calibration stuff looks good, your 3dprinter is obviously capable of printing that quality. It must be the settings in the slicer then…
I guess so,maybe this time I need someone to show me how a fish looks so I could learn how to fish :))
If you share the last picture model and gcode we could compare the prints.
@xchrisd Thank you very much.
So I was thinking at this : abucheo fantasma by elChivito - Thingiverse , scaled to 50% so it’s not to much bother
My g code:
8nHTEWzw3B5 50%.gcode (3.4 MB)
My prusa settings, hopefully this is what you need
PrusaSlicer_config_bundle.ini.zip (4.6 KB)
My M503
M503
G21 ; (mm)
M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z400.00 B888.89 Current E253.47, BACKUP SINGLE E253.47, BACKUP DUAL E667.22
M203 X100.00 Y100.00 Z40.00 E40.00
M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z500.00 E5000.00
M204 P1000.00 R1000.00 T1000.00
M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 P0.05 L3.00 C0.05 J0.02
M206 X-17.00 Y-8.00 Z0.00
M218 T1 X26.00 Y0.00 Z-1.500
left_z_compensation: 1.00 right_z_compensation: 1.00
M420 S1 Z0.00
G29 W I0 J0 Z8.41500
G29 W I1 J0 Z8.47750
G29 W I2 J0 Z8.49250
G29 W I3 J0 Z8.40500
G29 W I4 J0 Z8.28250
G29 W I0 J1 Z8.41250
G29 W I1 J1 Z8.50750
G29 W I2 J1 Z8.42875
G29 W I3 J1 Z8.37000
G29 W I4 J1 Z8.25625
G29 W I0 J2 Z8.42625
G29 W I1 J2 Z8.57875
G29 W I2 J2 Z8.48500
G29 W I3 J2 Z8.44125
G29 W I4 J2 Z8.32000
G29 W I0 J3 Z8.39375
G29 W I1 J3 Z8.56000
G29 W I2 J3 Z8.53500
G29 W I3 J3 Z8.46250
G29 W I4 J3 Z8.27625
G29 W I0 J4 Z8.41375
G29 W I1 J4 Z8.47750
G29 W I2 J4 Z8.48125
G29 W I3 J4 Z8.38500
G29 W I4 J4 Z8.22250
M301 E0 P13.00 I0.10 D17.00
M301 E1 P13.00 I0.10 D17.00
M851 Z0.00
M900 T0 K0.04
M900 T1 K0.04
Z1.00
ok
Again, thank you for this
So it finished… I will be honest, I haven’t watched it… just hit start…
The bottom seems a bit rough… My bed might be warped… Need to see if it’s covered by warranty:(
I’ll admit, that model is flawed:))
I’ve done a calibration cat as well, from thingiverse
Gcode
calicat.gcode (393.6 KB)
Same settings, and the results
Made a video of my linears… I can see a slight lift, but I might be biased… Long video so I’m asking for patience… maybe @Snapmaker-Support can’t have a look as well.
Small prints should not be problematically but over all, here you go:
@xchrisd I need to see if this doesn’t void my warranty, and to be honest not sure if this is the case… I don’t want to fall in a rabbit hole where I think the universe is plotting against me :))… Not even sure if it’s a rail issue… Watched the video few times and I see a jitter… But I might be bias
Like you say small prints shouldn’t be an issue, is the way I’m extruding…
@xchrisd @Rwide Just a technical question, I’ve been reading so many forums and seen somewhere that snapmaker has some “impossible numbers”
When I’m printing with the 0.4 nozzle, at 2.4 mm layer height… What line width should I use? Or what are optional settings for as a rule of thumb?
@Marius87bv The cat is overheated or not cooled properly…
Bet the plate shifted mid print, the embedded heating coil has about a 20 deg deviation where the probe reports but the bed sheet is about 5 minutes heating time behind, cause many print shifts when I first started, almost made me pull my hair out
@Rwide Is it something I could do about this? The fan is at 100%, tbh, never really messed with cooling
@WELewis not sure I follow…
You should probably lower the nozzle temp. When you see corners curling upwards like that, it is because of poor cooling and/or too hot material. Other countermeasures are:
Lower printing speed (this gives the part cooling fan more time to cool the material.
Increase layer height. Not sure why this works but it does…
Tbh not sure if 205-210 for pla should cause that kind of an issue, speed is quite average… slowing the speed would create under extrusion…
Still curious if someone would slice something and give me the gcode…
@Marius87bv Well, It’s not the temperature itself. It’s the temperature in combination with how good/bad the cooling is.
You can learn more about it here:
Also, if you slow the print speed down, the printer will still extrude the same amount of plastic, so it will not create under extrusion…
Not sure how much slower than 20-30 to go… It feels like the higher the layer height the worst… difference between 0.24 and 0.20 is noticeable in under extrusion…
And on 0.08 not noticeable, obviously because the lines are so thin I can’t really see…
But I still want to use 0.24 for some fast printing ( 60 mm/s )
You shouldnt try to "fix "underextrusion by decreasing layer height. It will still be underextruding the same amount (percentage wise). The exeption would be if there is a hardware issue.
If you think you have underextrusion, then increase e-steps or flow.
@Rwide cheers… you have read my mind from yesterday…
What I did, I’ve increased my e step from my 228 to about 250, to see if there is a noticeable significance… I don’t know the math… but about 20 more “steps” should give me blobs… or different types of issues…
But no… Still lines…
Funny thing is that you can see in the photo is that the thing prints well… and then those lines… so I think that the filament has little impact…
I was actually watching when this happened
And it was like the hot end stopped extruding, the filament was dragged out of the nozzle, hence the “doted line”, then started extruding normally… No snag on filament before or something…
@Marius87bv What retraction length did you use for this one?
