Will do, although in “testing” mode it does fine… I’ve printed a few flow tuning towers in vase mode and they look fine…
I still believe that is something with pressure in the nozzle…
I’ve watched some of the prints to see what happens and I see this
@Marius87bv Is that 0.4 layer height now again?
You change z-offset once after each calibration at the first print, it would be saved.
I would suggest - 0.1mm at your point but you have to check your first layer.
What filament do you print at what speeds?
Is it wet?
Maybe try Luban standard profile and see what you get.
We are users like you and no snapmaker staff so please understand that you need to answer questions, otherwise your topic would get silent.
So share settings to each photo, we cant compare apples and pies.
In general, use a layer height of about half the nozzle diameter or less and factor 1.2 of the nozzle diameter for extrusion width.
This means 0.4mm nozzle print at 0.2mm layer with a extrusion width of 0.48mm.
No, it’s 0.2…
Filament is dry, just out of drier…
This time I don’t have any of the more expensive filaments, but I can assure you that this has happened with, e sun and prusament
@Marius87bv ok. If walls looks good in vase mode but not when printing normal, i would try disabling z-hop and see if it helps…
Havent seen any retraction settings.
Your speed looks good (i print way faster with petg).
How your filament is feeded?- Easily pulled?
For clarification, you are printing with single extruder toolhead.
I suggest to print with a extrusion width of 0.48mm.
I still use the stock spool support… to be honest I can hear some dragging when the spool is brand new… But nothing major… I’ve put some Vaseline on the rod to help…
But to be honest never really had an improvement… I even unroll the spool a bit just to make it easier
I have done this tower
No artifacts when traveling in sharp corners like, or after retraction… tbh… don’t even know where the seam is…
I’ve done one for faster speeds as well… same quality…
I am still thinking is something to do with presure in the nozzle… or k factor… mine is 0.04… not a perfect line but the best… It’s like in real life prints, instead of making my line thinner it just stops from extruding( the nozzle not the extruder ) for a microsecond if you will and then restarting… On the ghosting what I’ve noticed that the filament is getting blobs on seam… corners… changes in direction and then travels a bit on an empty stomach…
@Marius87bv What do you mean perfect? What about the clearly visable horizontal indentations/lines. Are they part of the model?
Please check your Prusaslicer if z-hop is enabled.
edit: ok so those are the segment dividers I assume. I see that the tower is printed without z-hop. So if z-hop is enabled in your Prusaslicer, what does that tell you?
Those are meant to be in the model so I can make the difference, it was made on that teachtech website where it shows you how to calibrate a printer :))
Mine needs bining:))
@ Are you sure? The lift z setting exists in 2 places. (extruder 1 and fillament overides).
But regarding the small spots/holes. How does it sound like when they are printed. Do you hear a popping sound?
That’s the thing… no popping so I could say there are air pockets…
@Marius87bv No, the gcode resolution should not matter. Perhaps your filament drying proccess is not effective? I cant think of any other explenation for the spots/holes other than moist filament, if they are not seam artifacts… or maybe underextrusion…
Could be the filament… Not disputing… it is budget friendly, just because I’ve stopped buying premium ones after I couldn’t get decent prints…
Worth mentioning that in “test mode” like those walls are really good… then I keep the settings put in an object than everything goes bonkers…
Just wondering how something I print looks on someone’s else’s printer that works, with my settings… Obviously not the e step…
@Marius87bv What do you mean with “test mode”?
