So why are we only getting 80 degrees? My readings on ABS state that we should be printing anywhere between 100 and 120 degrees Celsius. 80 degrees is a LONG way from that. This seems like it is going to be a serious fetter to printing ABS and other higher temperature plastics.
I’m more than a little irritated by this. Changing the laser from 500w blue to a lower wattage blue/violet, I understand. Changing the rotational speed of the CNC bit, I understand. But this… it would have been so easy to just give the bed a little more juice to bring it up to a workable temperature, why stop so short?
Please tell me there is a good, working solution for raising the bed temperature…
In custom setting panel, it’s possible to set higher temperature. The recommended range is 20℃ to 90℃.
I tried to type 100, the snampaker3D showed a red error mark, but exporting the g-code with 100℃ setting was successful. And the machine recognized it.
But it took about 10min to reach 88℃, so I did not continue the test (I don’t have ABS filament anyway ).
The room temperature was 23℃. So I’m afraid the power of heat bed is not enough.
To conclude, I didn’t find a solution.
Maybe it’s my machine’s problem, you can test it out with yours to see how it goes.
The specs has changed, you can check the latest Specs on snapmaker website, bed temperature is up to 80°C. For ABS filament, you can add an enclosure to increase ambient temperature to reach higher heated bad temperature.
Thanks jhy. I don’t really want to push it beyond what its designed to do, though.
@Parachvte - I saw that the specs changed… what I didn’t see was disclosure of this before I committed to back it. It sounds like the specs changed to match the actual output, instead of designing the bed to the original specs. Its just a heating element and thermostat… it isn’t high-tech stuff. Like I said, the
CNC and the Laser issues – those are perfectly excusable in my book because the do not reduce the overall functionality or effectiveness of the unit. BUT – reducing the max heat output of the bed by 20 degrees C, when it was under-powered to begin with, DOES reduce the unit’s capability.
I have the enclosure on order, and I’m hoping that will bring it close enough… but 40 degrees C is a LOT (most sources say you need the bed around 120c), and it concerns me. With the shipping of enclosures still a few weeks away, I won’t be able to really put this to the test any time soon. I hope I can print usable parts… but I’m skeptical…
Something important that most people are forgetting. The specs listed during the KickStarter were that of a beta or even alpha machine. There are a number of factors in design and production of a device that lead to changes in the spec. Sometimes the changes are less than ideal but are necessary for things like safety. So for instance SnapMaker is using RJ25 / RJ45 jacks and telephone wire for connecting their modules. These jacks and cables are limited to a specific amount of current. This is why SnapMaker is running 24V which significantly reduces the amount of current necessary per watt. Even at 24V if you push too much power through one of these jacks / cables you run the risk of it getting too hot especially if it is not making good contact. This leads to a design choice, do you go with a special connector and cable for the heated bed or do you keep with the common connector that you have used elsewhere. Depending one when this choice had to be made there could have been other factors. For instance if they had already made the heated beds changing the design would have meant re-manufacturing them. This would have delayed delivery and cost considerable amount of money. Now I am not saying that this specifically is the reason for the change in spec, but it could very well be a factor.
The fact of the matter is that you backed a KickStarter. You take on a certain amount of risk when you do so. Part of that risk is not getting exactly what you were promised. I consider myself very lucky with my SnapMaker. If you want to see how bad it can get take a look at this KickStarter and read up on all the BS that surrounded it:
I backed that one. It took me close to a year before I was able to print anything even decent on it and I have never been able to get that printer to be reliable. I was printing better parts on my SnapMaker within 20 minutes of opening the box than I have ever been able to print on that CobbleBot without any tweaks. That is why I broke my CobbleBot down the other day and am using the parts to build a HyperCube which the SnapMaker is printing the parts for.
As for printing ABS specifically, why? Go with PETG. You will not be dissatisfied. If you really have to, make up some ABS slurry and smear it on the bed. Between that, the buildtak like surface on the build plate, and the 80C heat bed you should not have any issues.
I’ve read your other posts. You really know this stuff, and I hear what you are saying here. But it doesn’t really change the fact that one thing was advertised, and another delivered.
You build the part to the spec – not the other around. If a wall was hit for technological or monetary reasons during production, and an alternate plan was necessary, you disclose it to the investor. You don’t quietly change the specs to match a part or system that wasn’t up to snuff and hope no one notices. They disclosed the CNC module, they apologized for not disclosing the laser module (and they have taken steps to more than compensate us for this) – but the bed issue went completely unmentioned (at least I saw nothing on this in the updates). That is not cool. Was it an integrity issue? Or was it it another communication issue? One can only guess at this point. Neither instil confidence.
SM had stated that it will print PLA and ABS – and the software presets corroborate this in their product. I have a spool of PETG, and I was hopeful that it would work, but because they never committed to this media I didn’t have my hopes up. So, I went with ABS because it was supposed to work. And maybe it does… I don’t know, because I don’t have my enclosure yet. But, they never promised PETG, so I won’t be upset if it doesn’t work (but I hope it does!).
Ultimately, if it prints ABS without any problems or augmentations, then the bed temperature is moot – as far as their claims for the capability of the machine goes, they will have lived up to their claims regarding supported media. But what concerns me is that doors may now be closed to me because the bed cannot achieve a higher temperature. Further, I wanted to know if there were any plans or measures to remediate this, or compensate for it. I also wanted to know why this was never mentioned. How these concerns are addressed with have great bearing on whether or not I purchase from them in future, when the time comes to upgrade or scale-out.
With regards to my knowledge, yes I know quite a bit, but I am by no means an expert. Honestly what I do know is due to literally years of trying to get that CobbleBot printer to be reliable. It was a POS and when people complained that they were not getting what they were promised the company behind it started threatening lawsuits.
I fully agree with you that the responsible thing to do would be to disclose the change to your backers. However I still feel that the SM team has been far better at communicating with their backers about issues with their production than any other KickStarter I have dealt with.At the same time I, like you, would love to get an explanation for the change as it does effect the printers over all capabilities.
The machine itself does have some minor issues and design flaws, but the hardware that has been provided is far better than anything I expected at the price point they are selling it for. I would recommend SnapMaker to anyone who is looking for an entry level 3D printer on its 3D printing capabilities alone. Sure there are some areas for improvement like a better controller, a better heated bed, a part cooling fan, etc but this is their first generation, entry level machine.
In the Snapmaker3d i can select ABS as the filament of choice but as easy as PLA prints that is how elusive ABS seems to be. I don’t give a rats ass about how or why it doesn’t work. It doesn’t work. What i would like is a decent solution to make it work. Even if that means buy an other heat bed that can handle 120 degrees with out frying wires. But acting like things work fine… ehh not cool.
I was writing a detailed reply to this topic about things I have done to and with my SnapMaker to get better prints but realized it was better off in the Getting Started area of the forum. I recommend you guys check it out:
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