Is there going to be any add on or update that will allow the bed to go over 80 deg c ? Since for ABS it is recommended at 90 to 100 c. And it is advertised to print abs. Has anyone printed abs on here with only 80 deg c ? What are your results?
Bed heating is limited with current hardware because of a design limitation. Can’t fix it without changing some hardware and without altering firmware to match.
Yea i hear you, that why i am wondering if they are going to make an add on that is a higher temp heated bed like the one that is on the 150. At at temp of 80c it limits what you can print, and possibly makes it so that you can’t even print the materials that it advertises that it supports. I mean there may be ways to get around it with abs, you would only be about 10c below the low recommended bed temp so it may still work (haven’t tried yet) but its not ideal.
It can’t be a simple add-on because of the way the system is design. Power supply for the bed uses the system power supply. That would have to be replaced with a more powerful unit. Power control for the bed is in the controller unit, which may or may not have adequate current rating to handle higher temperatures.
They could have designed the heating bed to be upgradable. The simplest way would have been to have put a CAN processor into the heated bed, so that the (lower power) control signals came from the controller and the power supply came from elsewhere. But that’s not how the system is designed.
Brent is working on a heated bed mod that will run on 110vac, which you could manually do without much trouble, but to automate it (through gcode) will require some fiddling.
I will add that the bed will get up there in temperature, after awhile, especially in an enclosure. ive had it at 90 and i think it can go higher even. without an enclosure assembled
The firmware just uses simple bang bang control, and relaying that signal to a separate power supply of any voltage is trivial. No firmware mods required unless you need it to have PID control, then it’s a simple uncomment of a line.
Going to have to explain that better for me, i have little knowledge in electrical/ electronics hahaha. If im understanding you correctly you can bring it above the 80c already? By just changing a line of code?
No, requires additional hardware
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Oh ok, i figured it would. Hopefully they will make it available. Have you tried printing abs on yours yet even though the bed wont get to needed temp? If so did you have issues?
Use of a specialty adhesive can assist in printing abs.
I have printed some abs, very little, but enough to know it can be done if you can combat the warping with settings and/or the enclosure.
I printed some brackets for someone’s welding helmet out of ABS. Used Magigoo to help.
ABS slurry would be very handy, but you can’t put that on the print sheet… it would have to be a glass bed for that.
@Dadams You should be able to print ABS, did these vice jaws yesterday on my Anet A8 - $140, 4 year old printer. On glass with Magigoo (essential), no enclosure, bed temperature set at 80c but very unlikely it gets there. Model just pops off bed when cool.
The mark on the top of one jaw is from the divot in the glass that PETG pulled out.
Now when my Snapmaker 2 arrives …
vicejaws_83_22.stl (23.0 KB)
It’s just luban witch limits your bed-temperature.
If you control your machine via gcode 110°C are no problem, theoretically.
I made a little workaround, I mounted the cnc wasteboard under the heated bed to isolate the bottom (you have to cut out the thermistor place).
Firmware limit is at about 115°C, there occurs a runaway.
Thanks for the feed back!
@xchrisd, if I read that correctly, we could solve many of our bed levelling issues by installing the CNC wasteboard, milling it flat and using it as the basis for all three modes.
If you cut a plug that fits into the hollow for the heated bed, then you can even make the wasteboard flat for CNC use.
@xchrisd the 350 has much greater volume, and so requires higher wattage to achieve the same temp as the smaller models. It’s not as simple as a G-Code hack.
I have this machine A350 with enclosure and printed PE with 110°C Bed successfully.
The main improvement is the isolation of the heated bed.
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Before milling, I had a maximum offset from the highest to the lowest point of 0.6mm, after milling 0.4mm. I am not sure, I guess I have seen my bed rising and falling at movement or the metal in the printsheet isn’t flat. - I haven’t measured the flatness with a dial gauge again yet.
But yes, the higher heated bed temp. and the flatness are the reasons why I tried this.
Attention if you try this, you have to actuate the leveling sensor once before the head crashes into the bed because of a bed leveling routine.
Ha, I actually created an issue about that yesterday as I was running into the same thing 
https://github.com/Snapmaker/Snapmaker2-Controller/issues/27
For now I have a small piece of metal tape to the back corner to prevent accidents.
I did place a silicone mat between the wasteboard and heated bed. (didn’t like the idea of the heated bed directly on the wood. I do find that the heated bed still warps a bit. And also the prints heet isn’t perfectly consistent. This means when you flip it you get slightly different measurements from the probe.
But I did go from a warp of almost 1mm to 0.3 (when heated) and much smaller deviations between neighboring points.
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I just purchased the SM 2.0 and will be building a table for the enclosure. It has been a little while for this thread so I wanted to revive and see if there have been any new hacks or strategies to solve the heat issues? I would like to do whatever is possible to modify this to be able to print Carbon Polycarbonate, does anyone have some experience and think it is possible? I dont mind investing in some DIY mods if possible?