Scraping off the brim.
Matteforge PLA. It sticks extremely well to the heated bed.
Update: tried a few more times, until I decided to take the old sheet off. It pulled off easily. Just need something to remove the old glue residue and the spare sheet goes on.
I haven’t met such situation. Maybe heat the remaining filament would work?
Made a few adjustments.
Increased the first layer height to 0.2 mm (instead of 0.1 mm).
Turned the object 45 deg on the Z-axis (may sound curious, but with square objects it sometimes helps not to print then parallel to the bed edges)
Spent a LOT of time on calibration. Number 4 is still not quite where I want it though.
The Matteforge Advanced PLA is apparently very good at sticking to the Snapmaker surface, but the latest part I could get off with some heavy spatula use.
I tried blue tape. It works but it doesn’t stick well on the sheet, so I removed the sheet and stick it directly on the aluminium plate. Much better.
And then I tried mactap (the vinyl things that you put at the bottom of you kitchen drawer. It comes in roll so you end up with on piece instead of strip like with blue tape. It works really well. The “stickyness” is pretty perfect. The only small problem is with the first layer, sometimes it’s not really clean but the second layer fix it.
Don’t eat it more than 60c otherwise it will melt and stick on you object.
Ok newbie question. When I printed the Octacat, it stuck pretty well but since the print was done over night, I figured the bed cooled, thus making the object stick more. I later printed the T-Rex skull and removed it right after it finished and it came off fine. Same filament.
What I was wondering, is there a way to heat the bed with a printed object still on it? Maybe that would help loosen it?
Yea, this was my experience using Brim and the defaults. I also changed to having the first layer to 0.2mm with no adhesion extra. I also turned up the base layer temp to 60 (up from 50, for PLA) and that’s seemed to help balance any curling from the first layer. I will continue to experiment with different builds, but this has worked so far printing a Baby Groot with his hands flat on the base, fingers sprawled (the middle fingers were curling before!).
I’d also like to find out if there is some manual override. I didn’t find one, but after my first build where not all of the Brim would come up, I printed a small die in the center (so not near the stuck filament) and tried scraping/prying with the bed at temp and it did not seem to make a different. 50C is very far from 200C for melting, and i was using a real blade (not the tool provided, which bent immediately and is useless) and it did not come up.
I ended up just replacing the sticker, having learned a lesson!
I’ve gotten so accustomed to using glue stick on print beds that I do the same on the Snapmaker. It solved all my adhesion issues. With regard to the OP’s issue, glue stick would actually help that situation by providing an easily separable layer below the first printed layer. The only problem with using glue stick is that I have to scrape excess residue off the bed every few prints, but it’s worth getting reliable results.
With my first prints I ran into the same issue. Sticky prints that I had to force off the bed leaving residue behind depending how much leverage I could get. (all without extra adhesives or some such)
From my experimentation so far it looks like I was just too close to the bed with my calibration.
The attempts with larger distance seem to go better - as long as you are not too far and it never sticks
My current calibration is the “standard” calibration with additional 0.15mm at each point.
Still have to test some more if this is a repeatable result over different objects/contact surfaces, but it looks good so far.
Tried my first 3D print with a 1.0 today.
Bottom of the cube stuck hard and some broke off, staying on the bed.
I got it off by using Luban to turn the heated bed back on. Once it was warm, the spatula removed the debris without too much trouble.
I’ll try moving the head a little away from the bed on the next calibration and see if that makes a difference, and probably I’ll try warming the bed to remove the print, too.
Here is a video. This whole 101 video series is pretty good, and worth casually watching for sure.