Hi there.
My snapmaker 2.0 arrived a few days back. it’s now printing a small toy model (Astronaut Phil)
I know how to use Sketchup free version to draw a simple shape.
During the last 8 months of waiting for Snapmaker I read many articles about 3d printer.
1-) Create a model --> 2-) Slice it to get a G-Code --> 3-) send to a printer.
I know now that Utimaker Cura can slice the model and it can send the G-code to Snapmaker 2.0
But I am so confused what software must I use to create a STL file that’s compatible with Snapmaker.
A free Sketchup software can save a file into *.STL but Luban cannot understand it. It makes my knowledge with sketchup useless.
Can you recommend the software to design a 3d model / create / edit a STL. file? It’s just for hobby.
I download many Toys’s STL file. I want to modify them too.
Tinkercad is super easy to use. It’s not great for super complicated stuff, but the interface is really easy to learn and intuitive. When I need to create something quick it’s my go to.
For toy stuff I think it would be perfect. You can import stl files and modify them. The only drawback is that the stl can’t be too large.
For more complicated stuff I use Fusion 360. I need to play around with FreeCad more.
Here’s another recommendation for Creo Elements Direct Modeling Express.
Free. Can model ‘assemblies’ of many parts. Default save is their file format package, but you can select parts one at a time and export as STL too. And when exporting as STL they also offer resolution setting options. (I will set almost everything at linear step size of 0.01 and angular 1 degree, so cylinders don’t look faceted, for example.)
I won’t claim it’s the easiest to use but it’s robust and has a lot of features. You can import DXF’s or I believe SVGs to layers (NanoCAD is a free option for 2D DXF drawing.) You can bring in text, ‘offset’ it to make it block outlines, and then sweep to either make protruding or inset marking features. It has nice commands for offsetting faces so when you’re making mating assembly parts you can design perfectly flush and then ‘back off’ the mating surfaces by 0.2 or 0.3mm to assure fit with typical printing tolerances.
