I observe warp at all three edges when printing the Benchy, and results flatten and rough in the final product.
Filament: PolyLite PLA
Temperature: 200/50
Line Height: 0.16
I see similar results on any overhang larger than 45º, and it gets really bad past 75º.
I’ve observed that slower print speeds or larger objects work better, so I suspect it’s related to cooling and/or print temperature. So far, it hasn’t bothered me enough to address, but it will happen eventually.
Have you calibrated your machine well?
-turned off force retraction between layers in s3d,- i would suggest to try this first 
This is a cooling limitation. Benchy is quite a small object and so each layer takes a short time to print, this does not give the filament on overhangs enough time to cool properly and results in warping.
A few solutions to this that do not require adding more cooling fans include:
slow down print speed
reduce print temp as far as possible before layers do not adhere (test with temp tower)
reduce flow rate (have you calibrated flow rate?). If you are over extruding, the larger volume of plastic takes longer to cool
print the object along with other objects such that each layer has more time to cool
Yes, I have tried even 8mm/s with 180℃ and calibrated flow rate, also printed 2 ships together, still warping.
But it turns out maybe it’s because of the filament brand, I then changed to the supplied Snapmaker PLA and another brand PLA with a higher temperature and fater speed, they are all fine.
So I sealed that filament… at least for now.
Hello!
I hope you don’t mind me using your thread on warping. It’s just to avoid another topic duplication.
I have finished using the Snapmaker PLA, with which I had good results. I invested in good quality PLA by the brand Fillamentum. I used Luban for the slicing bit, and the model is from Thingiverse.
I started having warping issues on the edges, while I have not really changed any setting, appart from changing the extrusion rate (because new brand of filament) and bed temperature.
Thanks for any advice. The brand recommends a printing speed of at least 30mm/s. Luban speeds are quite far below that for most of the speeds. How good is luban regarding the printing speeds?
I’ll look for a thread regarding slicer recommendation and if not will probably start one.
Thanks again
Stan
There are a few things to know about warping.
If you have no enclosure, you should keep the doors and windows closed to not generate any cold air raising over your machine (sry my English).
Your bed should be best as possible leveled for bed adhesion.
Specially your first layer should be printed slower to improve bed adhesion, I would suggest 10-15mm/s.
Parts out of abs, petg and PE are very hard to print without enclosure because of the problems below.
Hope this helps!
every filament prints different, every brand, every type, every color, sometimes even every spool of the same exact stuff
Sometimes printing too hot can do it, sometimes too much cooling can do it,
sometimes i like to use magigoo to help with the adhesion
you’ll also find your bed has spots that are high or low, and learn to manipulate the parts to print around that too.
i dont use luban a whole lot but i know its kind of limited - a slicer like cura lets you assign a slow speed on the first layer then increase afterwards
a good old fashioned brim (instead of the skirt you have, the brim would be a few lines that actually touch the part) can make the difference between a part sticking and not too. more surface area touching the build plate
Thanks a lot for your replies!
I’m not yet finished with my homemade enclosure. Should be finished soon.
I turned up the bed temperature by 10° and printed the same part nicely. I guess it takes trial and error as any fancy diy technology and lots of time! I will take the time to learn a new slicer and try new settings.
Thanks again!
