Any ideas? Same issues at same spot every print - changed speed, flow, pla and temp - esteps calibrated, k-factor calibrated - luban AND cura….
As i know PID tuning is not possible at the moment 
So - i running out of ideas - maybe someone have the same issue here and can help
Greets mike
Hey, welcome.
What do your temp towers and calibration cubes look like. Are your settings in line with other people’s? What filament?
Benchy is, as I’m sure you know, a good test to verify correctness, but it’s not a calibration assistant.
If I had to guess, too hot, too fast (acceleration)
Hello brent, thanks for your reply. Cube and temp tower good. I hsve also nonissues when i print models without overhangs like a wall cube for flow calibration. I use 2 different pla‘s - timnory and snapmaker. I was printing from 200-210 and dpeed default till down to 40mm. Benchy alway look like shi*** - and always on the same spots. This situation make me a bit nervous- i had never such situation with my creality one.
This benchy from the picture had 200 nozle, 60 bed and 50 mm speed. Any help / idea is very welcome
Thx a lot
Mike
In the OP pictures are you referring to the indent marks? If so, they are the seem marks that occur at layer changes. You can change the seem to use a different method, so that they line up and become less noticeable. Luban uses the Cura engine, thus the reason that they are in the same locations for each slicer.
The bow in this last picture is an indication too much heat. With PLA, the bed should not be higher than 50°C beyond the first layer. If that doesn’t help, you may need to drop the temperature of the nozzle as well. The Snapmaker filament is not necessarily good, so if it doesn’t print well, use something else.
Its getting a lot better - what i changed
First layer at 60 then drop 50 degrees.
It seems like that the printer inside the enclosure is not able to cooling the parts proper way with the part cooler - also have issues with overhangs - i have the newest printing module and there don’t should any issues as i read. Also very frustrating is the missing PID autotune… slowly i start to think that it was not a good idea to buy this mashine - i had never this issues with other mashines and get frustrating now…
What temperature issues are you having that would require autotuning? I mean I agree removing features is lame, but I haven’t seen anyone require changing the bed or nozzle temperature control methods, it seems pretty stable as is.
And as a reminder the bed is using bang-bang and the hotend uses PID. You can manually set the hotend PID parameters so manually doing the ZN tuning is possible.
If you’re having part cooling issues maybe turn the vent fan on or open the door?
I understand… autotune is for me just a thing to check on a new printer to get shure the stuff work as it should (i trust no brand) as you see with the e steps - my mashine was with 212.xx more that 10% off…
Same story with the cooling - i know i can open doors, windows etc… but i dont buy an enclosure and can not print a a simple PLA cause of heat maybe im too hard with that company. I put a new photo from the benchy - this is a better result finally - but i cant reduce the nozzle and the bed more downwards i think.
Maybe you can also check the other artifacts and have an idea what i can improove further more.
Greets and thx
Michael
With open enclosure most issues gone - seems really a deficit in part cooling . Hmmm
