Here we have a selection of 3D Benchies printed with various slicers and print profiles. This is to serve as a comparison for the differences that can be achieved with calibration and tuning of the machine for the material being used. First, we will talk about speed differences, then in a soon-to-come additional post here we will detail quality differences.The calibration and tuning process is actually quite easy (though admittedly somewhat time consuming), but can mean being able to retain near perfect quality while also reducing your print times by as much as 80%, taking a 3hr print down to 30min. No, that is not a joke or exaggerated, as you will see. In these photos, you will notice that the quality is nearly identical amongst them all, but what changes significantly is the print time. I challenge you to guess which ones are made by what slicer and profile before reading the “spoilers.”
All of the prints in these first sets of photos were done using a un-calibrated, un-tuned, Snapmaker A350 with fully stock slicer profiles. The filament for all prints was Overture PLA Pro “Light Gray.” To eliminate the many effects that “wet” filament can have, it was sufficiently dried beforehand, and was printed from a dryer box for all tests. To note: all prints exhibited noticeable under-extrusion visible in inter-wall separation and top/bottom surface layers; this is at least in part due to the stock e-steps setting being 10-15% lower than it should be. Actual print times listed include approx 5-8min of printer warmup and the print start sequence. (Ignore the blue tape on the bottom of each boat; that is just how I labeled them so I knew which one is which.)
Spoiler 1
- On the left: Luban’s “Normal Print” stock profile
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- Slicer print time estimate: 2hr 42min
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- Actual print time: 2hr 55min
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- Luban’s “Precise & Strong” stock profile and appearance is not shown because it is virtually the same as “Normal Print,” but takes a bit longer due to an increased infill density.
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- Slicer print time estimate: 3hrs 1min
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- Actual print time: 3hrs 12min
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- On the right: Cura’s “Normal” stock profile
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- Slicer print time estimate: 2hrs 26min
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- Actual print time: 2hrs 35min
Spoiler 2
- On the left: Luban’s “Fast Print” stock profile
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- Slicer print time estimate: 1hr 6min
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- Actual print time: 1hr 17min
- On the right: Cura’s “Fast” stock profile
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- Slicer print time estimate: 1hr 14min
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- Actual print time: 1hr 23min
Spoiler 3
- On the left: Luban’s “Smooth Surface” stock profile
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- Slicer print time estimate: 6hrs 8min
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- Actual print time: 6hrs 17min
- On the right: Cura’s “High” [Quality] stock profile
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- Slicer print time estimate: 6hrs 24min
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- Actual print time: 6hrs 35min
Spoiler 4
From left to right: side-by-side comparison of Luban’s Normal Print, Smooth Surface, and Fast Print stock profiles
Spoiler 5
From left to right: side-by-side comparison of Cura’s Normal, High, and Fast stock profiles
Spoiler 6
- On the left: PrusaSlicer’s “Optimised” stock profile
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- Slicer print time estimate: 2hrs 7min
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- Actual print time: 1hr 46min
- On the right: OrcaSlicer’s “Optimised” stock profile
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- Slicer print time estimate: 2hrs 13min
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- Actual print time: not recorded due to print failure (see below)
Strangely, these two actually came out with worse quality than any of the Luban or Cura profiles. Prusa used significantly faster print speeds (100mm/s) than all the rest, which caused issues with overhangs and bridging from insufficient cooling, as well as other issues that can only be fixed with specific tuning. Orca produced the worst “Benchy hull line” (seen in the photos), and used a default heated bed temp that was too low (45C), which led to print failure when it detached from the bed while printing the smoke stack.
As you can see, aside from some relatively minor blemishes, not much difference other than time. However, here is the kicker: this last one was printed in accordance with the 3DBenchy #SpeedBoatRace rules, using Cura 5.8.0, after full calibration and tuning was performed.
Final Spoiler
- On the left: Luban’s “Normal Print”
- On the right: fully calibrated and tuned “Speed Benchy”
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- Slicer print time estimate: 27min
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- Actual print time: 30min 22sec (not including warmup)
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- Print speed: 80mm/s (all areas)
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- Travel speed: 120mm/s
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- Acceleration: 3000mm/s^2 (all areas)
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- Walls: 2
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- Tops/Bottoms: 3
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- Infill: 10%, grid
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- Print temp: 210C
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- Flow %: 110
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- Retraction: 0.4mm @ 20mm/s
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- Scaling Factor Shrinkage Compensation: 100.2%
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- Linear Advance/K-factor: 0.06
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- Bridge and Overhang Speed: 100%
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- Optimized wall printing order: checked
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- Optimized infill travel: checked
So compared to “Smooth,” the tuned Speed Benchy is a 93% time reduction.
Compared to “Normal,” the tuned Speed Benchy is an 82% time reduction, with virtually no loss in quality.
I found Luban to have the best quality of all the slicer’s default stock profiles, but I also found that it and Prusa/Orca do not provide the settings needed to match the speed I was able to attain with Cura while keeping comparable quality.
Regardless of which slicing software you choose, the main thing to take to heart is that proper and precise calibration of the machine, and tuning for the filament, are paramount for getting the best performance, both quality and/or speed out of your printer. In addition, many of the calibration and tuning steps applied also lend to significantly increased reliability and consistency over long-term use. Details in that regard can be seen in some of my other topic posts, such as here: Hot End Clogs - The How & Why
As promised, here are the calibration and tuning steps I take to achieve these results; it is recommended that these same steps be applied to every machine, even when not trying to print at max speed/minimum time, as the results will provide an even further increase in quality at “normal”/slower print settings (which is what I print at about 99% of the time with my A350).
Snapmaker 3D Print Tuning Holy Commandments
To be completed in order the order listed
* = Only needed during initial setup or after related hardware changes (extruder motor, toolhead mod, gantry rebuild, etc.)
Websites to reference for each step as noted:
Ellis3DP Tuning Guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
Teaching Tech Tuning Guide: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
1) * E-steps calibration – Ellis3DP
a) For most accurate calculation, perform with nozzle or hotend removed
b) Online tool for easy calculation: https://esteps.kro.ski
2) Dehydrate/dry the filament
3) *Bed tramming – Ellis3DP
4) Automatic bed leveling – Ellis3DP
a) Best done with bed and chamber (if applicable) heated to print temperature and heat soaked
5) Z-offset – Ellis3DP
a) Variable dependent on material
b) Use a nozzle temperature in the middle of the manufacturer’s recommended range
6) Temperature tower tuning (baseline) – TeachingTech
a) Should cover the full range of the manufacturer’s recommended temperatures
7) Extrusion multiplier/flow % tuning – Ellis3DP
a) Extrusion multiplier = Slic3r based slicers (PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer, etc.)
b) Flow % = Cura based slicers (Cura, Luban)
8) Linear advance/pressure advance tuning (baseline) – Ellis3DP
a) Linear advance = Marlin firmware; pressure advance = Klipper firmware
9) *Acceleration and manual input shaper tuning – TeachingTech
10) Maximum speed/volumetric flow limit tuning – TeachingTech
a) Increased nozzle temperature may be required/allow for increased flow and speed, self-experimentation required
11) *Jerk tuning – TeachingTech
12) Temperature tower (fine tuning) – TeachingTech
a) For best strength, choose the highest temperature with still acceptable quality
b) For best quality, choose the lowest temperature with still acceptable strength
13) Linear advance/pressure advance (fine tuning) – Ellis3DP
a) For best results, perform separate tests at each speed used during printing (inner wall, outer wall, etc.) if slicer allows setting individual LA/PA per line type or speed, otherwise tune at outer wall/perimeter speed
14) Fan speed tower tuning – Ellis3DP
a) For best strength, choose lowest fan speed with acceptable quality
15) Minimum layer time – Ellis3DP
16) Retraction distance and speed – http://retractioncalibration.com
a) Use outer wall/perimeter speed
17) *Skew – https://vector3d.shop/products/calilantern-calibration
a) Consider essential for the proper fitment of functional parts; not necessarily required for purely aesthetic objects
b) Explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbWAhb40kG4
18) Bridges and Overhangs – self experimentation
19) Filament material shrinkage compensation factor – any internet resource
a) Consider essential for the proper fitment of functional parts; not necessarily required for purely aesthetic objects
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