This topic will serve as the main thread for all Snapmaker U1 Kickstarter updates. We will post each weekly update here so backers can easily follow the latest information.
Updates on the firmware and software issues the reviewers (and the tech team) found, progress on filament profiles and tuning, spare part availability, basically anything that’s going to give us confidence that you’re going to get this printer working ‘out of the box’.
The tester video on the Kickstarter campaign page shows the first layer of the build plate size being molded after being taken out of the box, but it doesn’t look good from the video.
There are two places that are wavy.
The Bambu A1 was perfect right out of the box, though
I would like to see some additional information about this.
Also, as I wrote in the Kickstarter comments, I was speechless when I saw the official response that ABS verification took about 10 hours.
My main goal is ABS molding with a standard molding time of 15 hours.
As others have pointed out, there are concerns that the door or cover may warp due to heat.
When using the Snapmaker A250 Enclosure for ABS molding for 26 hours, the internal temperature is around 45°C to 55°C, and the warping of the acrylic panels in the enclosure is severe.
I regularly flip the acrylic panels over and reattach them.
ABS molding users are quite concerned.
By the way, I also pledged for the top cover as a backer in the 800s.
I will definitely purchase it and share my opinion.
For what it’s worth, the mesh shown in the video also has large bed tilt after shipping. Software mesh would do a lot of heavy lifting. In my testing I learned there is already a macro assisted bed screw adjustment that takes just a few minutes to correct that skew.
There’s a good chance not all testers knew this or simply didn’t do it. [I would add, this result is still a testament that mesh correction works ]
So there is some kind of function that can be adjusted with the head screw to perform “manual correction”?
Even if there is automatic tilt height correction for the heat bed, is it necessary to perform this “manual correction”?
If so, if it’s not mentioned in the manual, it might lead to a flood of questions in the Community like with the A350…
What’s a bit concerning is that when watching the preview user’s video, the bed calibration seems to skip measuring the left edge area. If that’s the case, could the left part of the green first-layer sheet being held by hand be causing the wavy pattern?
Agree…however…take Bambu as the example. Bed mesh and levelling is checked and calibrated before the printer is shipped and the first layer is near perfect straight out of the box, so the same should happen here, beta printer or not. This is where the basics HAVE to be done and have to be done right. We’ve gone past the days where everything had to be checked, rechecked, test print run, re-levelled, recalibrated. If manufacturers can’t get it right then they’re going to lose business, reputation and have a warehouse full of returned printers. People want a printer that is going to work as soon as they’ve assembled and run the initial calibrations, not some kit that needs a wiki just to get it to lay a decent first layer. Those days are gone…
I guess that depends what you’re printing. For what it’s worth, I’d done several successful prints on mine “out of the box” before even checking the mesh, including a first layer print.
Feedback on this is why we’re beta testers, I imagine!
Oh, and I doubt that. The mesh is, um, very detailed right now, as Sherry showed before, and it’s another point of feedback.
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