Snapmaker Artisan - Problem which makes the printer useless - suggestions?

Snapmaker Artisan
1

Hello there,

so I have my Artisan for about 3 weeks now. However It did not take long for me to find out about the “heat creep” problems that almost everyone has (yes, some don’t have it, most likely because their prints take between 2-5 hours maybe)

I only bought the Artisan because of its big volume with 400x400x400 (single extruder at least).
However, I could not finish one single print that’s over 5 hours.
The filament ALWAYS grinds away after some time.

I already used thermal paste on the heat break to improve heat dissipation, but it did not help. I feel like this product was never thoroughly tested before shipment…

I can’t get the “workaround-wedge” to fit in, if I try to force it in, something will definitely break. Also I inspected the print head after each failed print, and the extruders were never lose.

Some users suggested leaving the enclosure open - which is not a solution, especially when printing ABS or similar filaments - also, I even tried it, and it didn’t help that much with long prints.

Installing a secondary fan on the print head “door” is also a heavy modification which should not be necessary.

Are there people in here that actually fixed their issues with solutions that a reversible and reasonable?
Did I receive a bad print head?

more info:
→ Filament is dry and brand new, No difference, PLA or PETG from Snapmaker, Eryone, DASFILAMENT or others - no difference, same problem.
→ no problems on ANY OTHER of my printers, from cheap to not so cheap, the snapmaker is the only printer with massive problems.

  • Retraction was reduced even further than factory settings in luban.

Right now, the printer is useless:

  • Prints small prints fine

  • 5 hour<10 hour prints are a 50/50 chance but only if i leave the door open

  • 10 hour prints will always fail, no matter what

And all of this WITHOUT dual extrusion, which even increases the frequency of the problems, according to other posts I saw.

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2

I can not help a lot with that atm.
Testing some stuff though.

I can tell you you are not alone.

Seems to me that one Main Issue is the first layer which has to be thicker than your usual layerhigth (0.28) to prevent clogging caused by Scrapping on the Printbead.

Maybe you wanna invest in a better nozzletip. Right now im testing another one which is way more robust.
The Brass one can easyly be damaged while trying to unclogg or when touching the printbed.

Today im examining a phenomenon where i see the wall lines on the right Printbed side on top of each other while in Gcode they are next to each other.

Im with you that that printer isnt a easy one.
Considering myself as kinda experienced i have not really consistent results up to now.

I HOPE that snapmaker as a premium company with a premium product and a premium price tag will sort this problems out.

3

The filament ALWAYS grinds away after some time
Could you post a pic of how it looks?
This might be related to retraction speeds, length. Reduce both.

4

I suggest trying to understand the cause of the failed print.
You mentioned extruder not open and that you don’t need the wedge because it can’t be inserted easily. I suggest you revisit this. I had exactly the same issue of failed prints after a few hours, while short prints are fine. It did turn out to be the wedge. Though the extruder did appear a little disengaged in those failed prints.

Observe the first layer. Is it all smooth?
Is the first layer too thick? I actually change the default to 0.2 instead of 0.28 or whatever the thicker default is.

If you think the chamber is too hot in a couple of hour but don’t want to open the door, you can keep the door shut but turn the enclosure fan on. It will cause some air exchange seeping from all around the enclosure and hopefully slightly decrease the temp inside without causing drifts that might ruin an ABS print.

Have you tried filament from another company? Or another type of plastic all over?

If you see filament grinding, does the piece being printed require a lot of retractions? Perhaps decrease those a bit if possible. How about trying a full new print without retractions at all, just to know if it is the reason? I did that and found that I still had failed prints, and it was the wedge issue.

If heat creep is an issue, perhaps decreasing the printing temp a bit might help, can you go as low as possible for that type of plastic and see?

Are layer nights too small and flow too high so that filament can’t be extruded and there’s resistance inside the extruder, causing grinding?

I hope you’ll find a solution to your problem…

5

If you got a late dual extruder toolhead there are little rubberpads where the wedges should be. I disassembled it with needle nose plier so the wedge would fit.

Additionally i printed the snapmaker frontdoor to be sure.

Never heat creeped again…

Wedge

Door alias front plate

6

Hi all, can someone tell me more about the new door design which is discussed above?
Got my Artisan some weeks ago, still trying to get good quality prints - so far unsuccessful.
Main poblems: bad bed adhesion, lifted edges, very rough surfaces in overhang parts, temperature inside the enclosure way too high after a few hours (closed door but enclosure fan running). Tried different filaments, all default settings in Luban.
I’m really disappointed of this “high end” printer. My $500 Sovol at home makes perfect prints right from the beginning, in draft mode!
For all test prints I always use 3dbenchy and the torture toaster of clockspring3d.
Thanks for any help!

1 Like
7

dude i am still having issues with my bed adhession. I wanted to see if you found anything out? I am pissed to drop this much money and have bad prints

8

What is the wedge you are all talking about? I have changed out the complete extruder for both right and left. I just don’t understand how a product this expensive can cost so much?

9

If you have the new door design there should be no need for the wedge:

In the following linked post is the wedge for download, it was a workaround, in the meantime there was a free upgrade kit for early dual extruders (search for coupon code in your emails) :slightly_smiling_face:

10

I don’t think you’re correct.
The new door design deals with heat creep and is not related to the wedge.
The wedge deals with the extruder gears not biting well on the filament because the upper metal clip of the extruder is pliable and doesn’t keep its shape. It doesn’t click well after a short time of first installation of the head. The wedges compensate for the clip being loose and gives it a push to fit well in its place.

So you need both, the new design door AND the wedges to get your machine working well.

11

If you have the new door design the rubber pads should also have the latest design which means there is no need for the wedge anymore.

12

What is “the wedge”? I hate my Artisan, but it was too much $ to just quit on it.

13

Not sure why you didn’t read through this thread, I posted the link in June 2023.
Here we go again:

1 Like
14

I didn’t see anything else, so my bad. Appreciate reposting.