SnapMaker 2.0 Enclosure

On the falling off door magnets: I was just sitting here at my computer when behind me, where the enclosure sits, I heard a scraping, metallic noise. Turns out two door magnets tore off and juped at each other. It seems they are that strong that their mutual attraction is enough to rip the sticky tape off… I guess I’ll have to fix them with some other tape…

@staff: You need to improve that on coming enclosures :slight_smile:

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My solution (so far) has been to clean the black tape off the smaller sensor magnets at the center of the two doors then put a drop of gel-type cyanoacrylate (super glue) on each and hold them in place with another magnet on the opposing side until dry. Few days later they are still on there.

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I’ve been comparing specifications for the various SM2 models with their respective enclosure. I’m using the specs on the SM2 specifications page at: https://snapmaker.com/product/snapmaker-2/specs

It appears that the enclosure is smaller than the SM2 in several dimensions.

For A150 the WDH is 470x380x390, but the enclosure is 423x398x407, making it not wide enough for the printer.

For A250 the WDH is 600x510x490, the enclosure is 624x531x507, which does fit the printer.

For A350, the WDH is 700x660x580, the enclosure is 820x625x602, which is not deep enough for the printer.

Given that there’s plenty of videos showing the printer inside the enclosure, I’m clearly missing something. Can somebody please enlighten me?

The spec page is wrong!
Have a look: Need help to understand real dimension of SM 2

I’ve also opened a support ticked and Snapmaker Team reply that they will updtae the page but nothing happens! Unbelivable for me!
I’m still waiting to understand the real size of the A150 and A250.

Glad I’m not going insane then :wink:

So I have a question about the A350 enclosure ,does anyone know if the 2 smaller ends can be swap around so the smaller door can be on the right side of the enclosure?

Glad I’m not going insane then :wink:

We don’t have enough information to be able to confirm that.
The two aren’t mutually exclusive.

-S

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It would be a problem for the door sensor I think. If the long door and short door do not both open from the same corner then the sensors will not line up and it will always think the door is open.

You have to swap the big door to the other side. so, that both doors close to the same edge, because of the doorsensor. If you have Facebook, have a look here incl. the comments: https://www.facebook.com/groups/snapmaker/permalink/997144354037211/

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Still waiting for my A350 to arrive but prepping the space where I will use it. I am looking to pass the duct through a plexiglass window replacement to vent to the outside. I will need to cut a hole in the plexiglass to accommodate the duct. Does anyone know the diameter of the exhaust duct?

It’s about 88mm, but I would suggest you to drill or cut the hole when you have the machine because maybe you could drill a less big hole and turn the tube out. Because of the spiral thing, here is a pic

Hey there!

Does anybody knows when the Enclosure for SnapMaker2.0 will be available again for purchase?

Thanks

Is there a solution for this? If extension cables or longer cables are for sale at the Snapmaker shop, I would happily buy one!

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I was able to purchase a replacement cable, but I didn’t ask about a longer cable. With a replacement cable though you could splice it and lengthen it.

Are all the SM supplied cables the same length, or are they different lengths that you might be able to mix-n-match as required?

They are keyed into the following groups:

  1. Power supply cable
  2. Enclosure and heated bed
  3. Toolhead and linear modules

As you see, they are not particularly useful for interchanging.

So you are saying there a different connection within the cables then? Or is it the cable for the powersupply can stand a higher load?

If the connections are the same, I’ll measure the longest of them, and make an order for that. Where did you order the replacement cable? Don’t see them in the webshop…

Or indeed, order 2 Enclosure cables, from both cut one connector off, and solder the 2 cables together.
Or design a cable connector block, print that, add pogo pins or likewise, order 1 replacement cable and use that :slight_smile:
Enough options!

They are physically keyed with a molding in the shroud. Additionally they have a different number of wires. I ordered them by emailing support.

I would always worry about splicing two together personally. Maybe they will offer longer ones at some point. The other option might be to find out who makes their connectors and get two female ones to make a female to female adapter.

Lord knows I’ve tried. If you have any way to find out please post.