S3D isn’t dead, they have been working on version 5.0 which includes many, many many community requested updates and is more/less a complete rewrite of the software. If you’ve ever done such a thing (i have), it takes a LONG time (currently 3 years into one…). If you look at their Blog, their last post was about that very thing, posted in August, 2020. their 4.1 software works perfectly well for “normal” printing and while yes it could certainly use updates for some things, i’ve been using it for years and i like it way better than any other slicer out there.
Here is the link to Brent’s awesome post about everything SM2, including his attached profile which is what i’m using with some modifications to the scripts (see below). Snapmaker 2.0 Initial Calibration Settings / Experiences
I regularly change things like the number of outlines, the infill, the layer, etc. depending on what exactly i’m printing, as those things highly, HIGHLY depend on what you are printing, but Brent’s was a great template to start from.
The scripts I use are:
Starting Script
M425 X0.035 Y0.035 Z0.035 F1 S0
;Start GCode begin
G28
G90
G1 X-10 Y170 Z10 F3000
G1 X25 F3000
G92 E0
M117 Purging extruder…
G1 X120 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
G1 X200 Y20 Z0.3 F500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
G1 X200 Y20.3 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
G1 X120 Y20.3 Z0.3 F500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
Ending Script (which I think I did not change from Brent’s)
G92 E1 ; Extra retract
G1 E0 F200
G91
G1 Z5 F3000
G90
G1 Y340 F3000
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M84 ; disable motors
G28 X
To clarify the starting script: the reason I have the movement as it is it because I am printing on the glass bed, and I designed some overhanging corners to “clamp” them down. Since these went over the top of the glass, I wanted the nozzle to definitely not hit them while coming down. The “prime and wipe” is lifted (essentially) from TH3D’s setup. I use their stuff for my CR-10 and they are awesome. In fact my nozzle is their “hardened” nozzle and that has been working great. https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezflow-nozzles-copper-nozzles-with-tough-plating/ (the MK8 type obviously)
I have been working on a new setup (new base frame, be Y rail system so those rocking rails could be used with more bed stability, all kinds of other mod connections, etc.), but currently my machine is down because one of my controller ports is dead. Sent support a message yesterday about it and while I wait for their response, I will likely be reviving my CR-10, which has had a ton of mods and upgrades waiting to be done to it, but i haven’t needed it since I received the SM2. I may also need to dust off the SM1 temporarily to print some parts for that, but we’ll see.