I’m using Snapmaker 2.0 250 with the original PLA
When starting to print a model I get a lots of mess around the 1st layers .
It can be a mess on the nozzle itself or a layer than does not stick to the surface only at one part of it.
I tried calibrating the surface when it hot, I tried to run only one layer test and I got a situation that not all of the parts were the same, parts were very good and part were sluggish.
I tried to raise the temperature of the surface of the first layer up to 80C and it still a problem.
Any suggestions ?
I have calibrated it several times before each print and leveles it using digital leveller
The reason to use 80C is a recommendation made by your support. And in snapmaker 2 there is no glass as I remmember.
Thanks
Ori
Snapmaker employees have “Staff” next to their name, William is a user like you
Example:
It’s a bad recommendation and can cause warping as the PLA is molten.
Is this just focused on William’s use of the word “glass”? You should do some reading about material properties. Glass transition - Wikipedia
All of @WilliamBosacker’s comments I agree with
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If you’re using the Snapmaker PLA and having problems, the usual recommendation is to switch to another brand. The QA at the factory Snapmaker buys its PLA from isn’t that good, resulting in some spools that are okay and some that are junk.
Do the calibration stuff in WilliamBosacker’s guide. Take note that the current firmware has a known bug that affects levelling.
The other thing to try is adding something on top of the build plate to increase adhesion—glue stick (you want one labelled as “acid-free”), blue painter’s tape, or a 3D-printing-specific adhesive like Magigoo.
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As a new user i can only say what i did. Not what makes a difference 
- when screwing down your bed make sure you rotate around the bed screwing opposite screws to light finger tight then repeat to full load - i have no idea if this matters, it is something i learnt decades ago to even stress around on object that needs to be level (one does the same for head bolts on a car engine). Also don’t overtighten screws with say a power driver of ANY kind - do this all by hand feel, if you over tighten you could warp the bed.
- when calibrating do it soon after you turn on and before any prints
- make sure you hold the z-offset paper like they show you in the manual, i recommend you shift the head down until i grips paper, move it up by 0.01 mm until it is free then back down until the paper bends like shown - you should be able to toggle single movement between paper bending like shown vs not bending like shown.
- for me 3x3 calibration was fine for me for small objects in the center like the X Y X cube on thingiverse - start with something simple like that for first print NOT benchy.
- my first prints were done on normal and quality (not fast and used default settings). i had not done ANY of the other calibration steps people talk about at that point (aka only change one thing at a time). I have since done esteps and extruder settings, they really should only refine things, not make huge difference based on my experience.
Using the above i got a perfect first print, no adhesion issues, came off bed easily at end, didn’t leave marks, cube was near perfect (dimensions were maybe 1 mm off) and this was with the PLA that snapmaker shipped me in with the printer in Dec (it was all sat in a box until 10 days ago).
Good luck.
PS i did this all with latest firmware, never tried an ealier one.
Oh, and the other thing: make sure you got the build platform on with the correct side up. There have been several cases of people putting it on upside-down, because the instructions are a bit ambiguous. This results in a lumpy print bed.
Hi @lightov, how the printing goes now? You may try to increase the height and flow for the first layer so that you have more space to adjust the Z offset and get better adhesion.
You may try to set the Initial Layer Height to 0.3mm and the Initial Layher Line Width to 150%.
