my original build surface (the flexible sheet) that came with machine was incredibly ‘sticky’ i could print some PLAs at 45 degree initial and 35 for other layers no issues. In fact printing at 55+ could result in filament being bonded to the plate.
i just received a replacement official snapmaker one from amazon - it is quite different - i have had to move up to 60 degrees for initial layer 50 for subsequent to prevent the first layer moving.
I for one will be careful giving advice on bed temps to new folks - they could have super sticky plate or a not very sticky plate. I think this explains much of the differences (arguments) i see on facebook about first layer temps. For new folks they should start at low temp and keep raising until they find adhesion IMHO (yes i know most of you all know this )
It’s good to point out though, I think most people coming to snapmaker are probably 3d printing noobs, and I certainly didn’t have the natural instinct to start at lower temps (I feel like a lot of info I saw online often said start high and dial down to resolve stringing).
There are two reasons why the material does not stick to the platform: first, it may be that the distance between the nozzle and the platform is wrong, resulting in the inability of the material to stick to the platform. The second possibility is that the bottom of the model you made is not a plane and has an inclination, which makes one side of the model unable to stick to the platform。
I suggest you check whether the first layer of the sliced model is completely adhered to the platform
We are discussing something else, yes you are right getting the nozzle height is critical.
In this case we are discussing variability of build surfaces bought at different times and how they can vary quite a bit even when they are the official snapmaker ones, and thus the importance of dialing up the temp not dialing down. And there are way more than two reasons why something might not stick…
The normal printing temperature of PLA is set between 200-215. In addition, it also depends on whether the surface of double-sided steel plate sticker has been worn, resulting in non stick material, or the bottom support is added when Luban is sliced, which can avoid the non stick platform of extruded wire.
@MyWu I actually met @scyto on the Facebook group and have known him since the day he got his machine, his original sticker sheet was like that out of the box and only required a low heated bed temp for adhesion, he was actually having problems of it fusing to the sheet if he went higher and his z offset was correct, I thought it was weird at first too, in fact the whole group did lol.
It wasn’t worn or anything, I think it was an oddball sheet he got and I wish they were all like that, requiring low temp. Now that he got a new one he’s had to raise it to the range the rest of us have had to, and he has a valid point about it having differences from sheet to sheet. Personally I think the Snapmaker sheet is too slick of a surface.
@MyWu for example on that original surface i can print benchys as 185 nozzle, 45f first layer and 35f all other layers and they come out beautifully. Only time i ever had to increase temp was for a larger item i printed that warped - i had to up to a whopping 50/50f. And the kicker - that was alll with snapmaker PLA (i got lucky on that batch )
Yes, the lowest melting point temperature of PLA is 180 ℃. In addition, it also depends on the indoor temperature. If the indoor temperature is too high, the printing temperature you set is more than 200 ℃, which will affect the heat dissipation effect. If it does not reach a certain heat dissipation, the printing model will be deformed due to timely cooling.
If the surface of the double-sided steel plate platform of the machine you receive is slightly smoother than that, you can adjust it slightly downward when you adjust the distance of the platform until it is leveled, and there is a little resistance. Or select raft in Luban’s heated bed adhesion type. I hope these can help you!
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