Hey…
got my Snapmaker recently and nothing really works tbh.
I printed like 1 sucessfull thing. But since then the first layer is kina messed.
I calibrate like all the time and it always sticks on one side and on the other it doesn’t and get pulled.
I calibrated the filament pull. It was 0.7 cm off. I tried tape, i trief glue, i tried unscrewing the bed and putting it on again. i trief diffrent settings in luban and cura.
WHAT CAN I DO PLEASE? 
Can you make us an image of your first layer?
Don’t get discouraged. There is a steep learning curve with 3D printing, and the Snapmaker machines do have some known issues that affect first layers, and some other things, but we can definitely help you through about 90% of them.
In addition to providing photos, if you can send us the settings you are using too, that would be very helpful. Settings like…
Filament type
Initial layer height
Initial layer print speed
Initial layer print temp
Initial layer bed temp
Also, make sure you dehydrate your filament before use. Many of them will absorb moisture from the air, and it ruins prints. This should be done even for brand new filaments straight out of their packaging. You can use your household oven; just put the whole roll in it at 135*F for about 1hr, and that should be plenty to get you started.
Showing a picture of the problem would help a lot to solve the issue.
Some other things you can try is using the 5x5 calibration grid for more precise leveling and maybe getting the nozzle closer to the bed for the first layer which can be adjusted on the fly as the item is printing. It took me a bit to get the first layers consistent so I used to start all my prints with a “skirt” so I could ensure the first layer was sticking right and give some time to adjust the Z-offset before the actual part started printing.
I do 5x5 calibration all the time.
I also always adjusted the z offset while printing because the filament looks too “squished”
Also always do 2-3 skirt lines 
The filament i use right now is hatchbox pla grey
But also have
-esun petg transparent orange
-esun pla matte dark grey
-overture tpu black
-jayo abs white
and would like to get all of them runing…
oh and i dry my filament always 1-2 hours before printing…
the pictures are with the basic “normal” cura settings because i wanted to give it a fresh start
also cleaned the nozzle at 210 degrees before and cleaned the bed with iso alcohol
and the lines are sometimes “wobbly”? like not round and even
i have the machine on 8 legs and its completely in balance
it’s also in the enclosure and yeah… haha
I had similar problems recently with the original Snapmaker PLA, although it had worked before. I kind of got around it by manually overriding the heating and speed after starting the job: I switched to 210°C and 80% work speed. After the initial layers, the G-code will automatically return to 205°C, but you need to increase the work speed again by hand to 90 or 100%, after you’re sure the initial layers are good. Perhaps that helps.
The photo of the circles, and you said you use Cura…I know exactly what the problem is there…
“Combing mode” setting. Cura defaults this to “All” but you will want to set it to “Within Infill.” Essentially, “All” is telling the extruder that it does not need to retract the filament when travelling; this is both causing the stringing because the nozzle is oozing out, and causing the gaps because the oozing is causing the nozzle to lose its prime. Changing it to “Within Infill” tells it to retract unless and only if it is moving across infill in higher layers. You probably also need to change the retracting setting in Cura, as they default much higher than they should be; default is 5mm@60mm/s, but should be more like 1mm@30mm/s.
I use Cura on my A350 with Hatchbox, Overture, and eSun filaments (PLA & PETG), and the same style filament dryer, so likely your best settings will be VERY similar to mine. I will double check what I use and let you know.
I tried the settings and it’s getting better. still not perfect…
Ya that’s looking a lot closer! Another thing you can change in your slicer settings is the thickness of the first layer. If you are using a 0.4mm nozzle try making a ticker first layer of 0.24-0.30mm this will help with minor defects of bed surface flatness but tends to leave a little bit of “elephants foot” at the bottom of your prints. Also like @Mxbrnr said
My personal retraction setting is 0.475@16mm/s but I suggest running some calibration test models to fine tune your machine settings.
I really like this retraction test: http://retractioncalibration.com/
But you can also go through some of the other tests from Teaching Tech’s website: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
@Elliot which firmware snapmaker 2.0 350t has? (marlin,clipper,rrf? )
and the homepage looks really promising… my problem is only that i don’t get everything. are there videos or stuff that discribes the calibration process?
or in german?
thank you!!
Hey @justin.kr the snapmaker 2.0 uses a firmware build based off Marlin. As for the information in German I don’t know if that exists because the creator is Australian but you can check out Teaching Tech’s YouTube channel and he has some guides that should help!
Link for the calibration video:
https://youtu.be/rp3r921DBGI
I removed my printer’s auto distance piece. (it was broken after slamming into the print so I kept it out this time. I did a manual leveling/config and I have had pretty good results after many power cycles and prints; still not needing to config since the first time.
