Does anyone know the service material of the oems snapmaker 2.0 a350 print surface?
What is the recommended upgrade for nylon
or polycarbonate
Is there a way to increase nozzle temperature through the firmware up to 310 degrees with an all-metal hot end? I’ve already done the conversion and I can hit 275 no problem but for the print filament I nee now i’m going to need that extra 25°
Likewise is there a way to increase the heated bed temperature up to 100°?
I’m working on the road this week or I would do a lot more searching on the form so I apologize if this has already been addressed which I’m sure it has I just don’t have the time to look through a million topics LOL.
Thanks everyone love the community I love my printer and I’m excited for the new attachments that are coming out.
You should be mindful of the heat dissipation inside the print head, it seems likely you will end of melting plastic parts inside the heat.
The heater cartridges are capable of generating temperatures far in excess of 310C (I melted an aluminum block once using one), I’m not sure why you are unable to hit that temp. Is it because the machine is shutting it off due to high temperature?
Add heat to the enclosure with another heat source, add insulation, or replace the bed with a more powerful heater (mains voltage silicone heater).
I’m trying to run polycarbonate with carbon fiber and or cf PBT/PC. That’s why I’m trying to hit 290 to 310.c my question really comes down to 10 the stock print head with a all metal hotend be able to handle this temperature without damaging the printer itself because my on-screen software only allows me to adjust the temperature up to 275.
I’m looking at purchasing the enclosure and adding a very minor heating element to the fan to provide it some convection heat.
Do you have a link to any sort of how to on increasing the print bed capabilities as you mentioned I’m not really sure exactly what I’m looking for.
Ideally I’d like to maintain any warranty I have with the printer so I don’t want to get into too crazy territory but I’m also open to purchasing a new printhead that would mount to the same bracketry for higher temp and heated enclosure capability
I’m still learning and there’s so much to learn from printer to printer so forgive me for being mostly naive.
Thank you for the information you’ve already provided me in any further information you provide me I f-ing ove this community!
The hot end of the Snapmaker is lined with a PTFE tubing. PTFE off-gases toxic fumes at 265°C, and you do not want to be around when that happens. Also, the PTFE tube starts to deform at a temperature slightly above 245°C, which will cause clogs and require you to replace it. For temperatures that you are talking about, you should only be using a printer that has an all-metal hot end. This not available for the Snapmaker.
P.S. The maximum temperature is hardcoded into the firmware. You would need to create a custom build to go beyond the current maximums.
The sock will surely run into issues. I don’t remember the exact temperature, but I know that you can’t go above 300°C safely, which is where you need to use the high temperature paints.
Under the philosophy of “if I gave you a million dollars to make it work how would you make it work” I think the following would work:
Buy a new head (already mentioned above as an option)
Disassemble head and remount all of the electronics on the top or front of the case to be removed from the heat, and remove the plastic part cooling fan duct.
Put a large fan blowing across the now open toolhead to remove heat from the hotend heatsink.
Install new part cooling fan somewhere.
When assembled with slice engineering’s boron nitride thermal paste it should be able to function with minimal heat creep up the break.
I’m not knowledgeable on the paint issues you mentioned @CNC-Maker, but if heat is managed inside the head that should avert damage to paint.
The silicone sock on the hotend, if anything like the ones I see online, are good to 290C, so might be best to remove that and add additional cooling to minimize heat damage to the surrounding area.
The heater cartridge likely has enough power to maintain the setpoint temp even with additional cooling. If not, replace with a more powerful heater cartridge.
If you’re gonna get silly with dealing with “hot enough to melt the fans” temperatures, you might as well just go all the way to crazy town: Titan Aqua – E3D Online
Any toolhead change like @brent113 is suggesting would likely require some interesting rebuilding of the toolhead (maybe you could get away with just taking the circuit board out of the existing head and hooking another head up to it, but I’d definitely be worried about my warranty doing that).
I’ve heard of other people dropping in an all metal hotend, but it often required some slight modifications (read: boring out a larger hole) to the heatsink, and then it also seemed to result in more problems with jams.
I replaced the feed tube /heat brake as I understand it to be called with a all metal that doesn’t have a PTFE lining I also have a nickel plated copper nozzle that seems to work very well for the carbon fiber so far.
Might end up ordering another 3d print head just to fk with. Better then Ruining my only one for now.
I did a print with nylon and it worked amazing…aside from some warping. I need a better bed adhesion, I used PVA glue and a 80° heated bed but the ends of length lifted about .75mm anyways.
Care to link to the hotend you went with? I haven’t looked around, but since I’m printing PETG at ~260, it’d probably be a good idea for me to swap out to an all metal if it’s an easy swap.
This is just the heatbreak/filiment feed tube inside the printhead whatever it’s called.
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Works and fits perfect just be sure to adjust the sensor(screw at the back of Printhead) a tiny bit or you’ll end up pressing the nozzle into the print bed durring a calibration. You just need to adjust it like ~ 1mm lower in my experience but it will be up to you to dial it in. I recommend measureing the nozel height from the surrounding printhead and then measuring it again with the new heatbreak in.
How did this turn out?
I bought a new print head to replace the one that the plastic shroud burned up in.
I removed all the plastic and fans from the old one, installed an all-metal throat and nozzle (with Kryonaut), then printed some nylon at 275/95. Works great. Prettiest prints I’ve ever done.
Now I want to print some Polymaker PA12-CF Nylon Filament, but the nozzle temperature needs to be 280-300. So, I’m wondering if anyone else has done this yet or am I going to be the guineapig again?
Better then Ruining my only one for now.