I’ve been dealing with many failures of many systems of my Original and last evening, the power supply that came with the unit took a dump. I have no way now to continue the diagnosis of the the many failures, but I wonder if a bad power supply might have been that problem all along.
What came with the machine is this:
AC input 110v-220v DC output 10v 1amp.
I’ve seen recommendations for the controller to run on DC12-15v 5a. Does anyone think it’s been under - powered and causing damage, or it could have been a power supply and providing wonky power?
Thanks everyone for your input. I appreciate this forum. The knowledge and understanding here is amazing.
What? My Original power supply (kickstarter) is: Input 110-240V ~2.5A 50/60Hz; Output 24V 5A. That’s a total of 120W output. Your power supply is only 10W output, which seem woefully inadequate to power the move 3 linear modules AND a 1.6W laser. Are you sure you didn’t mix up the power supply with a different appliance? The name brand on mine is LYD Lianyunda, but I wouldn’t put a lot of stock in that staying the same from one batch to the next.
Unfortunately, I don’t see any specs in the manuals or online. Hopefully somebody else can chime in with their power supply specs.
I haven’t heard any indication that there is a different rev of controller across the life of the Original. But I suppose it’s possible that the kickstarter edition is different that the retail edition.
10V is an odd voltage, and I can’t say that I’ve seen anything running on that voltage for a long time. 5V, 12V, and 24V are much more common. In my experience, a couple volts difference won’t make or break things immediately. For example, I run plenty of 5V electronics off a 6V battery. I have a few toys that I acquired sans power supply, and I had to experiment to figure out the right power levels. Undervolting just means it won’t work at all, or won’t work reliably – I’ve never seen it cause damage, but I’ve only run it while trying to find the right voltage. Once you increase voltage enough to work reliably, giving it too much current (within reason) is better than not enough. It’ll only pull the amount of current it needs. Not giving it enough current output will lead to voltage drops when it tries to do something. It also stresses the power supply, leading to power supply failure over time. Examples of under current problems are when the heating element first turns and the display dims/flickers, or the machine struggles to maintain temp while the motors are turning. You may see similar effects by turning on a space heater, and seeing your room lights flicker.
If I had a 12V power supply laying around, I personally would be comfortable trying it out. Your warranty is long gone, so you’re not going to void it . I’ve also plugged 24V power supplies into a fan that only wanted 12V. It didn’t die immediately, but I’m pretty sure I lowered it’s life expectancy. Since you’re only sample is the power supply you currently have plugged into, I wouldn’t go over 12V.
This also might be a good thing to email support about. They should have the engineering specs.
They’ll probably be slow to respond though, they’re always backlogged after the Lunar New Year.
As I wrote those specs I questioned the power needs of the unit as well, but like you, I couldn’t find any specs on the OE power supply. Thank you for telling me what yours is. I must have mixed it up - the thing is, it’s ran like this for years. Wow - I never fail to impress myself - it’s amazing I can function. I’m gonna see a doctor.
Thanks again for responding.
. I’ve also plugged 24V power supplies into a fan that only wanted 12V. It didn’t die immediately, but I’m pretty sure I lowered it’s life expectancy. Since you’re only sample is the power supply you currently have plugged into, I wouldn’t go over 12V.