This is just marvelous.
A simple calibration print.
The brim shifted and i thought it was weird but then i came back and this happened, and the yellow square is obviously a bit askew…
This is just marvelous.
A simple calibration print.
The brim shifted and i thought it was weird but then i came back and this happened, and the yellow square is obviously a bit askew…
My first thought was “did the printing bed plate shift” but holy cow, there is just not that much room for it to move along the X axis!
Yeah… It didnt move at all.
So that means that my linear module is on its way out i guess.
Ive had 4 replacements over time. I have another spare they sent me at least.
Prints the yellow, loses steps and prints the red, on the return smacks into the yellow. Yep, I can totally see it.
You ain’t using these things as skeet launchers in their spare time, are ya?
not yet but i might start if this thing doesnt start cooperating…
Do you have your Snapmaker running on a UPS? The reason I ask is because of the numerous Linear Module failures that you’ve had over the years. I would suspect that you might be seeing power spikes/dropouts that are slowly destroy the stepper drivers over time. There were definitely some bad Linear Modules that were in the Kickstarter machines, but you’ve seen a much higher failure rate than I’ve seen from anyone else, so I would suspect something is contributing to your failures.
Best…
I cant believe this comes from your axis, i guess this is a firmware issue which appeared in a earlier firmware the first time.
Yellow is pretty well printed, line on line no shifts - why if not firmware?
Thats a good question.
Notice that the skirt printed oddly too, it printed layer 1 and then printed layer 2 about 50% off of position.
You may be right, the yellow is not shifted at all, only the red, and the red is shifted twice. Perhaps it is a firmware problem after all. The yellow got nozzled up somehow and all melted on the top, but is otherwise oriented correctly.
I have printed a true multicolor print, this crazy cat thing directly after those cubes. It came out okay, alot of extra extrusion spaghetti all over the place, but it didn’t experience the same problem. So if it was a firmware situation, why would something as complicated as this come out (somewhat) correctly but a simple pair of wall calibration cubes go so nuts?
This machine is such a weird oddity.
Currently running PETG. Which I will say, has been coming out reasonably well considering the length of time I spent on tuning the machine in. I always had a lot of problems with petg, but i barely did anything but esteps and it came out like this, even without my glass bed on.
I need to better understand the pre and post tool change gcode to properly retract. I don’t quite understand how I should be doing this, but in my head I am thinking it should be like this:
If the new tool is tool 1, set tool 0 active, retract, then set tool 1 active.
if new tool is tool 0, set tool 1 active, retract, then set tool 0 active.
But I am not sure if that is the proper approach, whether i need to re-assign the new tool back to active tool, etc.
or inother words, i am not clear if post tool changes occur the line before the change or the line after the change, and whether or not i need to assist with the tool change itself.
All right, i’m changing some of my modules out.
also i was just having a problem with feeding filament into the extruder, popped it open and then put it back together, and went i went to push the “clip” in, this time i felt it “snap” into place (the clip itself the latch was already snapped shut) so perhaps when I get this back together it will run nicely, right? right?!?!
Excellent suggestion. I have 4 Snapmakers running regularly and never see this type of action. All of them are on high quality UPS systems.