Nozzle/Bed temp reset mid print

I was trying to print petg for the first time, so I set my nozzle to 260c and turned my heat bed off (because I used blue painter tape, as advised by the net).

As I’m 2% into the print, I noticed the blue tape is all peeling up. I inspect the printer and notice that the nozzle (which I previously confirmed was at 260c) was at 205c and the heat bed was at 50c (which I confirmed had been off). This naturally caused the print to be ruined because the peeling tape caused the base layer to curl.

Why did snapmaker disregard my settings mid print?

Side question, every print I’ve tried has failed because I can’t get pla or petg to adhere to the bed and thus curls up at the edges. What am I missing?

Need to share settings and gcode to be able to help.
Pictures of first layers also are helpful.

260 seems high, even for PETG. I’ve been right around 240 with the stuff I have.

Are you trying to print in Luban while connected to your computer, or from file (either usb or transferred)?

I found that the blue 3M tape with orange or green writing on it worked terribly - the fancy stuff that’s supposed to be great for painting. Peeled up on me too as soon as bed heated up. The regular cheap blue tape worked fine. You could try applying it when hot, but I just gave up. I actually prefer glue stick for use with PETG though.


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I suggest putting the PETG away until you nail PLA. Figure out your first layer issues first. Once you are dialed in, PETG should be some different temperatures, and that might be it.

Here’s a great guide for you to follow

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I believe this is actually a bug. I have hit it myself once or twice but I can’t seem to reproduce it since then.

Thanks for the info. I have the snap connected wirelessly on wifi. The code, well, not knowing entirely what I’m doing, I just designed a small container using tinkercad and imported it over to the maker.

The print seems like it would work if it would ever just adhere to the tray. Maybe I need my bed hotter?

PETG is tricky, i agree with @halr9000, try printing the box with PLA first, its much more forgiving. after that, you will need to adjust your heat and your z offset by a little to get the PETG to work. also if you have not already done so. you will need to calibrate your E steps, if you dont you will never get PETG to work.

Thanks. What are E steps??? So many questions. This doesn’t seem to be a beginner friendly hobby hah

There’s a lot to learn for each mode. But it’s fun, and we’ll help.

Here’s the what and why

Here’s the SM specific steps


Everyone on here was a beginner at some point.
I believe the majority of people started with a Snapmaker.
The A350 is the first machine I’ve owned. I’ve done plenty of woodworking and tinkering and am pretty handy.
There is a lot to learn but once you get the basics it’s really pretty simple and logical. At times different filaments can do weird things and be frustrating, but people here will help you out.
Don’t expect it to be plug and play and as long as you put in some effort you might be surprised at what you can do and it will be more rewarding.

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I have no clue what you were talking about


Yes the front door was open and the bed skewed when I checked in on it and hit the emergency stop button!


i did some printing with PP before… that was a real pain in the A**! had to cover the entire bed in packing tape because it wont stick to normal bed surfaces. took like 8 hours of playing with settings and staring at it to get it to start printing… then it failed like 30 minutes in XD

Is it a coincidence that 205 and 50 are the default temps for PLA for the 2nd layer on?
Sometimes I have forgotten to alter all the settings in Luban.

I don’t use luban for slicing… its a poor cura copy. And the default configurations are just bad in general.

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What @atom said but luckily PLA is pretty forgiving. What I recommend is to print a temperature tower (google it, report back if stuck). Then use the scientific method to determine what the best temperatures are for your filament in your printer in your environment. Again, it doesn’t matter a TON with PLA like it does for ABS/PETG. But when you get ir dialed in, the results should be consistent and require less post-processing. Until your nozzle clogs, but then you learn what /that/ looks like and so on.

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