New quick toolhead change print

This is also an alternative. Has locating pins and lock handle. I printed in pla to test the fit and it’s tight. Will probably reprint in PETG and use it with a nyloc nut.

But yeah to echo posters above, changing the bed is much more hassle than changing the toolhead, would love to see a reliable quick release clamp for the bed

Well, another approach for the bed might be to use the CNC bed, machine it flat and place the heating bed on top of that.

That’s what I did :slight_smile: (And I think @xchrisd did the same?)

but still you need to fix the printplate it to the cnc bed somehow. You could put some magnets in the cnc bed or something to fix the printbed or laser plates. @xchrisd, I don’t know how you’re fixing the plate to the cnc bed? Personally I’m using just longer screws that go through it all for now.

For the printbed I wanted to put a silicon mat in between (I used this one, resistant up to 500°C) because I didn’t feel very comfortable to have the heated bed directly on the wood/cardboard. Although I don’t think it would be a real problem, but still.

The printbed itself warps a bit as well as it gets heated so fixing it is still needed to keep it flat. Probably less of an issue with the laser plates. (haven’t used the laser yet)

Yes @brvdboss, I did it the same, excluding the silicon mat. :+1:
For the Laser, I build a 3d designed plastic-clamp so there is no need to unscrew anything.

I personally find it more annoying that the heads screw in from the back more then having to use screws to switch heads. Just hard to reach.

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I think a clamping system would work. A ball stud (or something) that mates with a special clamp after it’s inserted.

Something like this for the stud, although I’m aware there’s very little clearance. The ball end would have to be smaller than opening, around 4.1mm.

A specially designed clamp could slip over the top and bottom and tension against the stud
image

There’s a few obvious problems, but I think they would be easy enough to overcome. Like, what secures the clamp in place, how much tension is required, etc.

maybe not so great for the CNC but something like this might help

I just found this quick change adapter on Thingiverse tonight. It looks quite robust and has a locking mechanism so it might be good for CNC. I’m gonna try it once my laser is done a super long engraving job.

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He had that posted on FB. He hasn’t ever tried it on cnc.
Let us know how it works.

-S

I think it would not work great even on CNC lol because the faliures are not beeing noticable!
The printbed is the very hardest thing on the hole machine! - CNC Never WITH THIS UNDERBED
The toleraces of the bed are sometimes bigger than the cutterdiameter rotfl
Okay for some decorate stuff it might be right but if you want to do CNCing… laughing out loud.
I will my machnine bring mechanicly to a good point. All the doing in firmware is a laughter as long the mechanic is not presice. You can call me a bad talker but if you had the best CNC Machine and can not handle it you had a shot in the ass! But a weak machine you can tweak and hassle IT WILL NEVER WORK seamless of your skills. The linearmodules are the best of the hole system (I kow the were often bad, mine were good so long). But lay your hand on the groundbed with a Probe set to the buildplate you see it going down for min a 1/10 mm no way thats good. I close now as knowing I have only spoken to the IMHO groundproblems, (The forum is overload with that) I will going my way snapmaker theirs.

(Dont take me all to bad im angry about snapmaker at the time)

Now I feel a little better hope you understand

HAPPY NEW YEARS ALL YOU MAKERS

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:joy: happy new year stefix, lets take a lil break and come at it fresh next week eh?

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I’ve had no problems with cnc. (well, except for when I tried to do a 2mm step down with a 1/4" bit in some really hard knotty oak and ended up having to adjust the play in my x-axis) Can’t push step-down as much as I like but other than being a little slow had no problems with results.






![BD33A816-B519-4BC1-A092-B9C64EC0F80F|500x500]

-S

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wow you guys are amazing!

@sdj544 I will go down on my knees and honor to you!!! :+1:
@MooseJuice Let us take a little break and then we (perhaps i meant me) be back to the frontline again.
thanks for your words! For you and perhaps your family? stay clean and healty and have a nice 2021
STEFIX

You post some of the best makes I have ever seen. How did you get the fine details on the angled edges of those beer tap handles?

I just want to drink this beer!!!

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Thanks!
A lot of tool paths with smaller and smaller bits. Start with 1/4" for clearing and work my way down to .8mm. A couple of them were around 6 or 7 tool paths plus contour to cut out. I measured the bits to where the shoulder starts so I get as much length as possible. A lot of bit profiles (including SM) lists their cutting length and you an actually push them beyond that. If you want to cut really deep (without a lot of planning) you end up limited to the shaft width. So the nativity I was only able to use 3.175mm ball end for final pass. Other than getting stock to starting size rectangular block I used SM for everything (including cutting slate) - no band saw or scroll saw.
Been trying to put together a walk through, but too busy making stuff. Just got recalled from furlough so not sure when that will happen now.
-S

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But it’s on an agle, did you put your pice in a jig to hold it at the right angle? And then cut each face individually?

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Lmao Glad to find out I’m not the only person grilling him over the dirty details hahaha

Sdj has a very good understanding of the tools and how to use them effectively. It’s very impressive

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No. Ball end with pocket clearing path does it pretty smoothly. A little bit of sanding to remove the tool marks.

-S

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