Cylinder test print (v3_recovered)_60mm-s_10%infill_2outline_5bottom-top-layers_02.gcode (931.4 KB)
pls try, is it better? -takes about 25min to print
Will do need to load up so new filament first, I report back in 45 minutes.
Thank you!
When I look at the file you gave me I see two of them when I look at the files on the SM1 touchscreen; CYLIND~1.GCO and _CYLIN~1,GCO which one should I be printing from?
CYLIND~1.GCO is printing now!
you could rename it before to get sure its the right file.
It loads to the USB as one file but when I go to load it on the printer it shows up as 2 files. I’m printing now. We should know something soon.
I see the excellent xchrisd is on it. 
I pulled in the Gcode - if you go layer by layer in the preview you can see in that area some odd movement of the nozzle. Did you design this? Do you know the exact wall thickness?
increase your extrusion settings in the filament setup to 110 or 115… or maybe xchrisd already got this for you.
If you design your own STL’s using fusion, etc, keep in mind wall thicknesses are best as a multiplier of the nozzle width. If something is thin, and this is not the case, then the slicer does it’s best in dividing it
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Same SSDD and gcode!
Although the print looks better I’m still seeing artifacts but they’ve moved in location on the print by 20 degrees in location. This is probably due to when the printhead changes direction.
I videoed the print and noticed the the touch screen is flickering in the temp settings, I will look to see if I can snap a picture of it from the video.
Thank you again guys for helping me with this.
Robb
looks like mine, you have to fine tune your retraction settings.
How does one do this?
So you mean to calibrate the PID settings for the extruder, correct.
Or the about the filament retracts before movement?
filament retract by movement is the key
Ok I’ll play around with the settings. So what we learned from the print is my printer is behaving the same as yours did based on the pictures I showed you correct?
the print is the same.- your printer is well calibrated and has no mechanic or electrical problem so far i could say it from here.
3d printing means many hours of testing, trail and error.
Have FUN! 
by the way, PID Setting of the extruder is just for the heating element.- your printer heats and holds the temperature?- no adjustment of pid settings needed.
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Your correct PID for the pulse of the relay for controlling the heater and step for the extruder sometimes my brain and fingers don’t always commute well> LOL 
I will still look at the signal once I have access to the lab again and an oscilloscope, something is causing the screen flickers which shouldn’t be there in the signal. In the Ninites I worked in semiconductor for Samsung and Cypress controlling lasers and 6 axis robots to blow 0.18 micron fuses on silicon wafers so hopefully I’ll get this figured out once I play around some more.
Thank you very much for helping me out @xchrisd and @NilartPax is more appreciated than you realize.
@xchrisd can you explain you octoprint setup or direct me to a thread were I can learn more?
Robb
octoprint is a linux based system, i am running it on a raspberry.- The raspberry is connected via usb to the snapmaker.- I don´t know if it works with Snapmaker 2.0 like with the original (because of the new display).
Its open source an you could monitor and check your printer.
There are several threads on the snapmaker-forum.
@xchrisd
Thank you!
Could you be so kind as to tell me how to access the settings from the gcode you provided me or a of list them? I have it pretty much dialed in all but a small issue which is present in the interior in one spot that is a gap traveling vertical that I can’t seem to resolve with flow speed, etc.
You’ve been most helpful in getting me pointed in the right direction, I’ll post pics after this print and If you willing, I’ll post the code and see if there’s anything else you could straighten me out on.
Thank you again!
what slicer do you use?
i would recommend cura (free) or simplify3d (cost)
with other slicers you have more much more options to be set.
for example look at this guides:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
I’ll have a look at Simply3d I have Cura loaded up maybe I should give that a try and layoff SMjs for a while not seeming to gain anymore on the print quality. I’ll look over the tutorial you posted first and take a break from the print for a hour or so. 