Most stable wall thickness dimension

Hello, Snapmaker lovers!

I’m using Snapmaker 2.0 A250 and I was wondering what is the thinnest wall of PLA that can be made strong enough without warping?

I am using Snapmaker 2.0 A250, and I was wondering what is the thinnest PLA wall that I can use to get good strength without warping. 0.8mm would not work for me because the higher the wall, the more it would warp.

I always design with 2mm, but the molding time becomes longer, so I want to make the thickness as strong as possible while shortening the molding time.

I wish I could test it, but I thought you might have some ideas or tips.

You could try vase mode to print super thin?

My wall thickness is usually 3 shells @ .48 line width (estimated, it varies with my slicer determination) so 1.44ish and typically this is sufficient for most things. i havent really sat down to try it with only 2 shells much.

I can print .4mm walls just fine in vase mode and frequently do so if i am calibrating my slicer flow, but that only works for relatively simple geometry (as far as I know anyhow, havent tried much else)

it all very much depends on what you are printing and what you expect out of the part

I have a model with 1mm wall thickness and 0 infill that i stopped halfway thru from when i was first starting out and i was just squeezing on it, it flexes but is not gona break too easily.

Hello, Moosejuice.
I am always grateful for your replies.

I haven’t actually tried molding in vase mode…
I haven’t actually tried molding in vase mode because I haven’t tested it with simple shapes like a vase or a cup.
If it is possible to mold a 0.4mm wall in vase mode, I would like to try it.

The two layers of 0.4mm were designed once to produce a dust cover for CNC (which I unveiled today) and failed.

The dust cover for CNC that we released was designed with 2mm as before.

The stacking line of the wall is 0.4mm x 2, 0.8mm, but it is separated into one layer each as shown in the picture.

It peels in two when it is bent with very little adhesion made.
Of course, it is not strong enough, so it is uneven due to heat deformation.

I wonder if the minimum line is 0.4mm x 3 layers?

Try “spiralize outer countour” aka vase mode, i think you might have success.

otherwise, maybe if you were to smash the z offset down a little bit those two layers might fuse together better?


I couldn’t find the time and it took me a while to confirm.
I’ll share the information.

Spiralize Outer Contour
When I thought there was no setting in Cura 4.8 in Japanese mode, I found it in the preference settings…

Special Modes] - [Spiralize Outer Contour].
According to the explanation site

Spiralize the outer contour of the image, which is usually done layer by layer, while printing. This is suitable for printing something like a vase, where the outer circumference can be printed in a stroke of a pen. Since it is printed in a single stroke, retraction does not occur and the flow is stable, resulting in high quality. Many of the beautiful vase and glass samples you see are made with this function.

You can read a detailed explanation of Cura here.
It’s in Japanese, so you can use your browser’s translation to check it out.

I’m going to give this output method a shot!


I hope it works out for you, share pictures!

I created a model to test Spiralize Outer Contour and exported it to STL, but only Cura seems to be missing data.

STL Data

There are no problems or errors in STL tools such as Luban and 3D builder, but only Cura is missing data, is there something wrong?

Must be something in in the slicer settings doing that, but I haven’t any idea what it might be. Sorry.

It seems that data inconsistency occurs when I use Spiralize Outer Contour mode :frowning:

This may be a problem with the model mesh, as there is no problem with the normal settings, but there is no error, so it remains a mystery.

I’m going to learn more about this as I’m not able to build a proper model :slight_smile:

I wish I could further help you, but I am out of my element when it comes to modeling.