They look great hope the print comes out ok.
Mine came in… I’m feeling kind of lazy about doing it… was it easy?
@MooseJuice no, gotta take the enclosure off so you can turn over the Snapmaker and replace the foot pads to lower it to the height of the enclosure. Then it’s a bunch of precise alignment, but they are adjustable.
It’s not too bad. But Artezio is right. The enclosure does have to come off, and then the alignment is a bit tricky. It’s maybe 2 hours worth of work overall. One thing to note though, make sure your 2020 brackets are actually 20mm high. The ones I got first were a bit over, and blocked the block from it’s full extension (which meant it couldnt home).
i dont have my enclosure assembled yet. so it will be a good time to finish them togehter i guess…
im all achey with a shitty back and dont wana deal with it.
I’ve finally done the mod myself as well:
I’ve made some modifications to the adapter that was mentioned earlier in this thread so you can adjust the height with a nut:
this makes the installation a little bit more convenient and easier to do (what you see printing in the video is actually the wrench I needed to finetune the adjustment as the clearance is rather small
I’ve done some prints already and that works very smooth. I hope to see the biggest advantages when using the cnc function (which I will try later this week). Especially curious how it will hold up with dust flying around. The rails are just lying the base plate. Using some painters tape to make the slide around less. This seems to work pretty well actually.
I’ll make sure to publish the stl files and a description on the mod later this week
As promised: the stl & source files have been published. You can find them:
- on thingiverse (Snapmaker 2.0 SBR16 linear guides support by brvdboss - Thingiverse)
- on github (GitHub - brvdboss/snapmaker-linearguides-support: Adjustable supports for linear guides for the Snapmaker 2) for the original OpenScad source files.
Feel free to use and do let me know if you need some help with it.
BRVDboss is your adaptor for the original webbed plate or the updated webbed plate
I think the other one posted above might be for the newer style i dont think it will go on mine right. although i didnt flip it upside down to look closely at first attempt to fit it, didnt seem like it would
I am going to print these out with HTPLA and do my first annealing for funsies.
Protopasta Blood of my Enemies color
It is for the original one. (the one with the pointy corners). It’s based on the v3 of the design by 3DNate (Snapmaker 2.0 Linear Rail Guide Adapter by 3Dnate - Thingiverse)
So you should be good to go
As always, try with a single one first to make sure it fits
i will make them work hehe, i am used to post processing woes although i bet they will fit right anyhow.
Do you know what thread those nuts are? they are a biiiit tight, i can thread it on about 1/2 way
i can carve it out if needed but i probably have taps at work.
What worked for me was to tighten it a bit, like a quarter turn further than you feel the resistance, then loosen the nut, tighten it again etc.
After a while you get all the way and it should turn rather smooth. I did print the threaded parts at a low layer height (0.08 I think, using variable layer height in Prusa Slicer.)
But I did get it to work without other tools, which was what I was aiming for.
yeah im sure i can work it in, just thought id ask since we have a full fabrication shop at my disposal. however i was hoping for freedom units so i dont think we will have metric hehe
not a problem, i will make it work.
Ive never annealed HTPLA before so I am not sure if this is going to warp things.
I prefer to spend my time on more useful things than silly conversions
I haven’t used it before, I would expect some shrinkage. If you need another size of threads, it’s relatively easy to make that change. Just change the parameter in code and generate the stl files again.
Just let me know, I am happy to add an extra version.
naww, ill make it work.
i like the design its nice. i screwed the plates down to the block for working the threads in and it is going easily. i was worried about it being so thin with a jammed nut but this is working fine
so the last things I need are - cable from snapmaker, silicone baking sheet and some shorter screws.
all of which will be here in the next couple days.
What I am doing is - i never assembled my enclosure, so - first… i am trying a new 750 watt heated bed (waiting for a cable from snapmaker to get that going), then once im satisfied with its performance, assemble my enclosure with these rails, and bam new machine.
these were the next logical steps after the glass bed upgrade and then the IR sensor
got my new glass with heater and insulation primed and ready, and gona put it on top of my OTHER glass bed to sandwich it together and it hsould help with warpage from heat too since i have insulation between the glass and then insulation under the original heated bed as well
hell i might need to start tinkering in the firmware to unlock a hotter max bed temp and maybe i can even print nylon!
i plugged in this heater for 15 seconds and it was 130c LOL
Looking forward to a post about that upgrade when it’s finished!
Where did you get a glass plate the correct size for the A350?
I had a local glass company cut them for me.
Used freedom units since I am in the states. I ordered two pieces in regular glass and two in pyrex.
Cut size I used was 1/8” x 13-1/8” x 14-3/8”
regular glass was 9 dollars each pyrex was like 65 bucks.
Are the pads which ride on the nut intended to fasten to the build plate or just rest there with the webbing. there is a hole pattern on it but i am thinking that it is not used, right?
They are just resting there and kept in place because the they are tightened by the nut. I personally just put enough tension on it so they don’t shift or wobble anymore. Next I attached a dial indicator to my toolhead and measure the four corners and tightened/lossened the nuts a bit until those are perfectly flat.
(then put a piece of mdf on it, mill it flat and use that as my base for everything :))
The holes aren’t used. They were part of the original model that I used as a base for the pattern. Modifying that one was a lot faster/easier than trying to recreate it myself So the holes are some artifacts of that.